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If the plugs for the ECU at the end of the engine harness are yellow it's pre89.. If they're gray it's post89.

I really don't know what everyone's got against brown... It's a WONDERFUL color! It looks GREAT painted black!!!

^^^Heh, I had thought the same thing. Just figured he'd have already replied if he had anything to add.

Just so you understand, I mentioned converting to speed density so that you can avoid having to route everything through the same inlet. In this case the intake would just Y out to two different air filters with no VAF in either. But then again there is the cost of additional hardware.

ROFL! Indeed you did... I read it to mean the opposite. As in "there's no such thing as 'too close'"... my bad. :icon_razz

I would think that given that the VPC lets you run S/D you could ditch the HAC... Well, if you weren't getting error codes before then it's probably time to start inspecting the wiring and connectors. I'd start with making sure the VPC is in proper working order and that it hasn't been damaged...

That much oil?! If it's not leaking and the coolant doesn't look like rotten pudding it's coming out the exhaust... whether you're seeing it or not.

A longer exhaust pipe could help, but from the sounds of it you may be running excessively rich or burning oil (as mentioned). Three questions: First, can you post a pic (from the side) of your bumper so we can see just how short the pipe is. Second, what's your mileage like? Third, How often...

Speed/Density and a butterfly valve to bypass the impco?

Heh, well, half of the new arrangement is on it's way to your mail box. ;) You're going to be so screwed when I finally get some sense and sell this money pit and swear these cars off.... I'm thinking 10 speed after this.

Yeah, I killed one and the replacement wasn't very happy either (until it was moved). I wasn't sure why you'd say they *couldn't* be too close to the heat. Some people have no problem with their sensor in the stock location on the GTE. Are the exhaust temps at the turbo elbow cooler than...

Throw your stock N/A manifold back on, put the wideband sensor there and get back to me. ;)

Swap over the electronics from the previous engine and save yourself a whole mess of trouble and headache? I don't follow as to what's been swapped where either. You've got an '87 with an '89 going in to replace the '92? One what version wiring harness? That's the number one question. If you...

To correct the THA error code (when running without the stock AFM or a THA sensor) you only need to add a 2.2K resistor to the harness across E2 and THA. http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/Electrical/MAFT%20Pro/MAFTwriteup/7M-XXX/MAFT%20Pro%20and%20Codes.html I'm not familiar with the VPC...

Pull up the rubber boot and you'll see a small metal plate with 4 bolts... remove the bolts and remove the shifter. Might want to put the shifter in neutral before you pull it, some find that makes it easier to get back in.

That's bizarre. If the dimmer were out the CC would not light up with the headlights ON, but would light up fine with them OFF. Actually, I can't think of anything related to the gauge lighting that would cause the CC do what you're describing. Just to be sure, check the fuses for both...

A fuse isn't a bad idea, I used one when my dimmer died and had to wait to be replaced. The jumper is used if the dimmer is proven to be shot. It's not so much as a diagnostic tool. Although, a short to ground up stream of the dimmer would blow the 7.5A Gauge fuse. If the white with green...

Sorry, if the dimmer's the problem inserting a jumper in the harness plug, effectively connecting those two wires, will give you back the lighting in the absence of the dimmer.

The following link has the information on how to prevent THA related error codes. The details will be included in the updated wiring diagram. http://supra.fadingworld.com/Electrical/MAFT%20Pro/MAFTwriteup/MAFT%20Pro%20and%20Codes.html The information on that site concerning prepower the...

Jumper the white with black stripe wire to the white with green stripe wire on the dimmer's harness connector. White with green stripe is (to put it very basically) an adjustable ground.