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Timing too. ;) And why the hell is this posted in a thread about swapping intakes?

Water cures the type of silicone that's being referred to here (tin catalyzed or condensation curing). It's not water based by a long shot.

Can't imagine why anyone would have to go further than that.

Cometics are made to order. I'm not even gonna comment on what the salesman told you. That said, I'm out... the rest of you have fun. :3d_frown:

It's not just that you lose power, but the power and torque curves get a even weaker in some areas than the overall loss. If that makes any sense. Look up the specs for a stock Cressida... granted I think the ECU's a little different too.

Two chicks at the same time. ;)

Yes, he knows there's a sensor there... And OP, yes, some people have posted about them going bad. It's a mechanical switch and as such it's going to wear over time. There are ways to replace it with greater longevity inn mind... but it's not really worth it. ;)

If you're referring to the throttle body gasket, if it's the stock MLS (Multi Layer Steel) gasket, it's reusable. If it's paper it may tear. If it comes off in tact you can reuse it.

Actually, that's correct if you were to just run them both to the manifold. The reason the two work with a boost controller is that the side opposite of the spring has to push whatever amount is required to overcome the resistance on the other side. In a single port wastegate that resistance is...

Vapor lock is not terribly common with these cars.

Depends on whether the wastegate pushes to open or pulls. The one in the picture pulls open. You can plumb it so it uses both ports (if supported by the EBC) or just one port.

Cut holes in the support, just enough for the opening in the duct. Then have reinforcements welded to the top and bottom of the support. That's how I'd approach it anyway.

Oh fine... <mechanical voice> Rant mode: DISENGAGED</mechanical voice> :biglaugh:

I'm typically hard to piss off. ;) I'll post a pic later (possibly tomorrow night) with numbers and all and actually show you what may go where and what won't work.

And yet you're still not really listening to all the answers. ;) And "BEST" is entirely subjective. A HKS Stopper, for example, is probably the WORST for your build... won't know until it blows of course.

LSDs are usually labeled on the rear of the housing.... actually, I don't recall ever seeing one that wasn't. There are also codes on the chassis tag that indicates which the car came with from the factory. I don't remember the codes though, but if you search you can find it posted on here...

Hey bud, you're cutting corners and you're most likely going to pay for it. The straightness of the block is NOT the only factor in a MHG sealing well. The roughness of the block is the other MAJOR factor. There's texture there from the factory. From the factory the block never had a finish that...

Well, the dome lights for at least the pre89 MKIII's are not 3022's. They're a bayonet style bulb (like the rear turn signal bulbs, but much smaller).

We just went over this.... the neither the stock drain or the stock feed were drilled out at the factory. The port with the plate over it is an access port to the main oil gallery after the oil filter. It had no purpose after the construction of the block, from what I understand. It is a...

1 minute and 30 seconds into the video at the above link is your answer. A black primered, pre89, without a roof it appears. Also visible from the rear about 20 seconds earlier.