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+1 This is the most common cause of the problem described.... dunno why I always assume people know about it.

It is in the owner's manual and there is a copy with that info (Pre89 North American) floating around on the net. There are links to it on here as well.... try searching handbook. Might have been mirrored over at that turboninja's site. EDIT: I just realized this thread had been collecting dust...

The fog lights are already on a relay, rewire that and you're golden. ;)

I've got a couple different ones from various Toyota makes and the common failure points do vary.

Actually, that helps a ton. I've got the same size oil cooler and that's pretty much how I planned on mounting it. Thanks!

One injector that's not firing or otherwise damaged won't prevent the engine from running, although you shouldn't run the engine with known fueling issues... you can cause major damage. Is the plug end of the injector with the high resistance the same color as the others? pre89 MKIIIs should be...

No shit... Salomon68, one word: Paragraphs. The easier your posts are to read the easier it is for us to help.

With a bigger IC? I'd like to see pics if you've got any.

Most make a bracket and hang the oil cooler between the IC and A/C condenser, a few place it in place of a fog light and a very small group place it in front of the IC.

No rubber between the dampers and the springs in the stock setup.

Perhaps IJ.... But in the aren't we all just "looking for someone". I feel giddy inside to know that two more souls have found each other, to know that a site which I so foolishly and singlemindedly thought of as just a *car forum* has played such a pivotal role in the lives of two...

You'd want to swap in a GE intake cam. ;)

All of the MA70 diffs swap straight across. The only thing you need to change is the speedometer drive gear in the transmission (well, there's a little bit more to it than that if you want the speedo/odo dead on, but swapping the drive gear is usually enough for most people).

It would be helpful if you could post a bin and a data log for us to look at. At least post up all your settings in text.

Damn... I was looking forward to a snack. :evil2: The one problem that people encounter with putting the IAT over the engine is heat soak. I would always (as a bare minimum) put it in after the IC though.

Was that the sum of the damage? The hell with the pulley, I could imagine that kind of thrashing taking its toll on the crank pretty fast. Heh, I almost killed my timing belt when I swapped the crank timing pulley. I forgot to torque down one of the camshaft timing pulleys (the intake...

Agreed, there are a couple possibilities aside normal wear and tear. I checked everything that I didn't replace very thoroughly as i don't intend on having to fix that again any time soon. I imagine the crank moving forward and back (even a minuscule amount) could cause this over time, or the...

Oh, around 160K... how about the rest of you? I imagine there are other possible causes for this other than just wear and tear. If another pulley in there came loose or were not spinning truly on it's axis I could see the belt putting enough pressure (over time) to weaken the crimps. I'm sure...

Yup. Here's one more cleaned up pic (It's big, so click on it a second time after it opens in the screen with the black background to see it close and detailed.):

:biglaugh: As stated, it's not the clearest image, but it is very easy to see the crimp points. (I'm pretty sure I've got better pics of both of mine)