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Don't worry, I've kept you and your setup pretty much up to date. ;) Just wait 'til you get the bill. :naughty: Affordability is the bitch for most when it comes to the MAFT Pro. If you're not planning on going turbo (or even if you are) and simply MUST be rid of the stock VAF you could...

Yeah... it's all a matter of how much you want to spend... ACK. :aigo: Speaking of that thread... I really need to go through and update a TON of stuff in it this winter... Don't let me forget Cuel, k?

I'm sure you know as much... but you should also know not to presume that anyone else here does. ;) The amount of lost power on the low end from the engine having to push the gas out itself is hardly measurable... but, it's still there. It's just a fact that gets passed up too often and...

Keep in mind that in some instances driving in the highest gear possible may require more fuel to keep things moving smoothly than driving in a lower gear at a somewhat higher RPM but a much lower load. For example, I found that cruising in one gear puts my manifold pressure at 73kPa on a mild...

^^^ Precisely. Tuning for Vf is only good if you're planning on letting the TCCS maintain lambda in closed loop.

Specified flow RANGE for N/A injectors is 276cc/min to 340cc/min.... pretty big range and that doesn't even tell us what they're SUPPOSED to flow from the factory. Don't even expect that you're going to see that maximum of 340cc/min either.... Whoever told you 380cc/min is guessing and needs to...

Errr, from everyone I've talked with I suspect the second 9 you typed there is in error. Should read about 9%. You should update your software. The newer versions (5.x in particular) have had a fair amount of refining with regard to the enrichment and decay calculations. Post up the rest...

Correct. You can still use WOT tracking, as long as you make sure it doesn't come in until you're in open loop.

This is the first thing that needs to be addressed. I don't know what you might be expecting to gain from larger injectors.

$.02 ;) As for timing control, that was worked out by Bob and a MKIII owner on here... I presume they tested it. I have yet to set it up on my car though. R7 is removed only if you're using timing monitoring... it has nothing to do with timing control itself. The two are handled by...

If I follow your question then NO. You must disable part throttle tracking (idle, cruise and lean AFR tracking) if you reconnect the stock O2 sensor. Otherwise the car will probably run like crap as the ECU fights with the MAFT Pro.

The versions mine came with are: SetupTunerProRT_v413 generic.exe SetupTunerProRT_v414.exe Don't remember anything about either though. EDIT: Well, I just installed both of the versions on the disk that came with my MAFT Pro and neither is a registered copy.

Most people get their manifold readings for the MAP sensor from the same line that runs to the cruise control unit. It comes off a nipple at the back of the upper intake manifold (between the manifold and the firewall). As for setting, you're really just going to need to look around. The base...

Whoops, missed that question. Pete's right. That's typically caused by a memory error. I had a unit do it to me... although I had to reset that one a few times before it got it's crap together. To reset, write down ALL of your settings, then power the Pro while holding down the two right...

I'm at work so I can't go through all of this. I'd increase the AFR Tracking Min TPS setting to about 2.70. PTT is disabled by setting the TPS to something lower then your idle TPS voltage OR setting the RPM to something lower then you ever really see OR (I've read) setting the gain to 0...

LOL! Ten holes later and all you've managed to do it pop the gas door! :biglaugh: That'd be hilarious. I'll just stick with the tools of the trade: slim jims and lock picks. All professionally acquired I assure you. I could give a thousand ways to get into a car and a thousand more...

So, what's the problem with getting into the car? I find it very hard to believe the dealership doesn't have someone skilled enough to get you in it. Anyway, congrats on the rescue!

Mine is flat, but no holes... not that they're hard to add. :icon_razz

Are the two different version the flat steel and the steel cable? If so I much prefer the flat steel version in my '88 N/A. Are there any other differences between pre89 and post89?

Actually, Champion has a great track record with our community for having things in stock or at least getting it and shipping it out the next day when it comes to the more common items. I'm biased, I'd stick with a Toyota HG over most of the other composite HGs from other manufacturers.