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yea i checked the the blue 15a one. I don't know what AM2 box is but I checked all the fuses in the box and they are all good.

Update I was going to the junk yard today and my car died on the highway. The AM2 fuse was pooped don't know what that fuse dose. Changed it and when on my way. After the yard I went to get petrol then went to leave and the car just cranks and cranks no start so me and my friend pushed started...

looking good.

Was it the stupid plate that has a M on it cuz the same thing happened to me when I did my turbo swap and that plate had no gasket took me forever to figure it out. I thought it was the oil filter housing adapter o-ring then the turbo drain to block gasket but no the m plate.

how I got a long block for 50 bucks and did the work my self new pistons rings bearing and stock rods. I could do so much with 5k you got raped on price.

the injectors clips for the 89+ are different then the pre89. The knock sensors are the same I think the vsv's are the same the cps is the same the coil packs are the same the 89+ egr has a sensor on it and the pre 89 dose not. Just get a pre 89 harness and pre 89 injectors. Also depends on what...

just did my na to turbo last week it you go yellow plugs (87-88) you also need that year turbo cluster its like 40 bucks at the junk yard. Some how hook up the stock boost gauge if you want I didn't just had another aftermarket one so i hooked that up. the w58 is good for now till you get...

take you oil filter off and unbolt the plate with a M on it and put a new gasket there and some FIPG and sung it up this is what happened to me and took me forever to find it. ---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ---------- Snap just saw you said the...

nice car I just did my na to turbo swap last week having a freshly rebuilt motor is so nice way better then my 194k na. You going to to a gte swap?

well I did that na-turbo swap the other day. Took 12 hours had to cut and wire the turbo 87 auto tranny for the clutch switch and revers lights. Dropped it in and hooked it all back up and I took out the efi fuse and turned the key over several times. Then put the fuse back in an it started...

OK so I found out that the problem is. The turbo oil return gasket got soaked in oil and was dripping out I need to get one from Toyota have to order it tomorrow and get it prob Monday.

I got a new gasket from Toyota that goes to the bottom of the turbo for the oil. The banjo bolt is working great and I used a stupid make it your self paper gasket for the drain to block from turbo. ---------- Post added at 12:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:35 PM ---------- could...

what you need to tap the holes in called a bottom tap that's what I did and it worked out great no more threads showing. 12+1.25

yea bolts right up I did it.

So I finally swapped out the na motor and put the turbo one in last night. Cranked the motor with no EFI fuse several times and then put the fuse back in and it stared right up. Had a gas leak so found that and had to change out the first injector. Put that all back then started it up and found...

Update had to take the head off to fix the head gasket. Took it apart the other day cleaned the gasket and resprayed all the layers with copper seal and bottom taped all the head bolt holes. Put the head on a torqued the head down to 75 pounds and called it a night. Well tonight I got back at it...

Thanks again you guys for the input I got a bottom tap 12x1.25 and taped the bottom of all the holes for the arp's and also went and got the 3mm hks head gasket measured so I don't have 3mm of gasket. Insted I got it measured for 1.8mm I took out on big layer and one small layer. I sprayed all...

when I got the gasket the viton wall almost gone so I got all the layers clean then sprayed the gasket with copper spray. but didn't spray the layers in between so I took it apart to re-clean and re-spray all the layers. ---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM...

So I just got done taking the head off and getting all the copper seal off the gasket, block and head. I was wondering if I should take some layers out of the gasket so I don't lose to much compression. I got the head and block decked plus the back part of the timing cover didn't get a amount of...

What about his arp's mine look that same a bit of threads are showing on the bottom should they be taped out or good to go?