Pull the shroud and grab another fan one of the guy here will have one.
You can drive it like this until you can replace the shroud as long as you're not hammering it too much.
Tom: Not at all good idle pressure is a bonus!
(sort of wondering why though as most 7M's are a good bit lower)
As long as it's not clattering badly a bit of valvetrain noise isn't going to hurt anything and is better/safer then them being tight.
It's worth getting it checked and reshimmed...
How much runout were they seeing Tanya?
(I'm not saying it doesn't happen it's just more rare then people think, slightest pedal pulse and it's instant "Warped Rotors" not the resin buildup after cooking the pads that it actually is)
Sorry for any misunderstanding I was being sarcastic....... :3d_frown:
I'd like to hear from FStoy why he thinks the HKS is better than the Cometic for high HP applications...
LOL yep apply 400 rwhp car squats camber changes 2" wide tire contact patch doesn't cope and smokes em back off car drops hit it again launches forward then squats repeat ;)!
Rotors rarely "Warp" as a kid I worked as a Machinist in the Brake industry and had to have machined a few 1000 discs and don't remember many with more than 20>30 thou runout and these were totally thrashed!
Most times the pulsation you feel is either hard spots or Pad material buildup in...
Don't run it with a missing piece of blade the imbalance will kill the bearings in the waterpump and trash the Fan Clutch and we all know how fragile the 7M Cooling system is and what can follow if it lets go!
Nope nothing external
There's a data plate in the engine bay but that will only show what diff the car shipped with and it sounds like either your OD doesn't work or it's had an NA 4.30 swapped in.
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