i would start with the cps and move from there. if there is still starting problems... i would look into the starter and relay. although i doubt its the problem. my car has the original starter from 1987 and the only starting related issues ive had were the battery cables and the cps wiring...
it idles that high all the time? or only when you first start the car?
you should check your timing. car wont run right if timing is off. tps could also be a problem. or might even be your afm.
with me, my idle was messed up because my isc wasnt working. so i got one from a friend...
i have an extra fmic in my garage im looking to get rid of. inlet and outlet are on opposite sides. 2.5" inlet and 2.5" outlet. i dont have the dimensions at the moment. pm me if your interested.... ill give you a good deal
-pete
its less painful on your back and knees if you take the cps out first. its a good idea to have different color wires handy so you dont confuse yourself. soldering iron, solder, wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers are also needed. you can either buy a male and female universal 4-pin...
try starting the car while your friend wiggles the wires for the cps. if your facing the engine bay, follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the water neck. the cps is right behind the water neck attached to the cylinder head.
theres a good chance this needs to be rewired. also...
i pulled the #3 wire from the coilpack and there was no reaction from the engine. there was an adequate arc jumping from the wire to the coil (very white). do you mean pull the wire from the sparkplug itself? that will be kind of difficult to do while the car is running since the coilpack...
i checked all that in the beginning. and last week when i installed the new turbo i removed the piping and intercooler to clean the oil residue out. when i reinstalled everything i checked all clamps and the couplers to see if they were snug and in good condition. i replace 2 of them that...
yea tell me about it. i wont make it either. my motor is f'ed up. burning oil like crazy. the new one wont be ready till after the meet.
last fall, for the first time in 5 years, my car was finally operational for an etown meet and it had to get rained out. and for this meet, my car decides...
originally when the problem first started happening i was using NGK BCPR6E at .032 and NGK wires (dont remember the part number).
when i first started troubleshooting i had a set of bosch platinum plus part #4001 gapped at .032 in my garage (i know they arent the best, but theyre what i had)...
i fixed that issue. i replaced the heads of the sparkplugs (that contact the spark plug wires) with new contacts. as mentioned earlier, all that has been tested and confirmed. coil pack and wiring to coil pack has the proper voltage according to the tsrm. resistances of coil and ignition...
all you have to do is connect a jumper in the diagnostic box to t1 and e01 and turn the key to acc. the check engine light should flash steadily if there are no codes. the car doesnt have to be running
i have struggling with a miss ive been having. i was helping a buddy out on his supra and when we went to run to the auto parts shop, suddenly it started to happen.
i narrowed it down to cylinder 3 by pulling the spark plug wires to see if the car idles differently. plugs were dirty so i...
thanks i forgot mention that. also, most people dont have a caliper to use. i generally change replace the rotors for peace of mind every 2 or 3 brake pad changes. cheap insurance.
-pete
if you look at the caliper, there are two connections to the bracket. the lower one is a bolt (i think the head of the bolt is on the back of the caliper) and the upper one is a pin (so it can pivot). loosen the lower bolt and removed it. the caliper should rotate up sliding the pads off the...
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