Search results

oh... duh i guess ill order one up from champion thanks for the help

what shaft? the oil pump shaft?

when doing a rebuild and getting the block hot tanked, you have to replace the aux bearing? im in the middle of a build right now and did not order one. my machinist should know about this right?

test it according the the tsrm

if you pull off the intake pipe to the turbo, there should be visible oil inside the inlet if it were leaking.... at least that was the case when i had a ct

i believe RC charges $26 each for a flow test, clean and flow match

well im rebuilding the motor and am deciding on whether to pull the motor alone, or the motor and trans. this is my first time doing this... i was wondering if pulling both would make the job easier. im borrowing a friends hoist for the job and dont want to be stuck with the rear seal from...

what the benefit of poly over stock rubber, or solid mounts?

i once had the floormat jambed into the gas pedal holding it slightly down.... was idleing too high. couldnt figure it out until i washed the car and vacuumed the mat. felt like in idiot

so you would suggest pulling the motor and tranny. then putting the new seal on, connecting the motor and tranny together, and then dropping the two back in? -pete

lol.... thats a good question

jt2ma71..... how the hell did you get your car on ramps? when i try to use my ramps they damage the front bumper. i dont have a front lip installed or any kind of body kit either. -pete

thats true, jbl's site was the sht back in the day... i almost made myself a set but im not that creative when it comes to that. i have no doubt they work just fine, but something about metal gives me piece of mind. -pete

to be honest, if you dont have a mandrel bender, i recommend purchasing mandrel bent aluminum or stainless steel bends and straight pieces and connect with silicone couples for your pipes. a regular crush bender (most exhaust shops use) would not be a good idea to use. i would not use regular...

maftpro is not tedious to tune. you just have to understand what each setting adjusts and how to adjust it. you can tune fuel at different load points at different rpms... that in my opinion makes it much more capable than just about everything below a standalone. using a laptop with tunerpro...

there are plenty of sites which sell a set for our car or you can get DIY kit and make your own (cheaper route).

i havent tried many others... but i thinks its pretty easy if you understand what your adjusting. and it probably the most powerful unless you go standalone, which IMO are difficult to set up and use.

i believe he has a narrowband. and using the reading from it is not a good indicator of what your Actual AFR is. I recommend getting rid of it and buying a wideband o2 sensor and gauge to monitor AFR

i def. recommend getting hardpipes. its worth it to get rid of all the headaches and prevent further failure. if you only replace one section of piping with hardpipes, chances are that it will put more stress on the old worn out stock piping and they will eventually blow

the damn tire shop did the same thing to me.... thats why i dont post my picture in my sig. but youd think that a tire shop would know what they are doing... or at least be able to read.