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i know.... i trust both of your opinions with respect. this is what my plan is for now. ill let you guys know how it goes. thanks for your help -pete

i completely agree with you. but im not trying to spend too much money on a temporary fix. i guess im going in circles here. i know what should be done, but i just want to get by for now. thanks for the advice -pete

Starscream: hahaha.... i know its a possibility and there are no guarantees. but i just need this to hold up for a little while. i dont want to spend a bunch of money to get this rebuild if im just going to have to do it in a few months on the new motor. are you saying i shouldnt even bother...

ok thanks. i plan on using the head that im taking off for the new motor if its in good condition. i know its not a great idea to put the newer head on the motor without machining it, but if its in decent condition, what kind of problems could i expect?

on my current head, or the one im about to put on?

i hope this is the case with me.... ive been through two heads before i got the latest motor. and after i got the motor, i still burnt oil............. never as bad as now though. for now, im just borrowing a buddy of mines head (thanks iceberg). but my june, ill have my new motor built.

had the exact setup and problem when i had the lex afm. was resolved when i went maftpro. maftpro made it a lot easier to fine tune compared to the afpr alone. my vote is that a afpr is a must when doing fuel mods. and at least get a wideband and/or maftpro with wideback tracking. -pete

when you reconnected the heater core, did you add coolant and burp the system? that could be why you dont have coolant and your temp needle is jumping around. -pete

so this should greatly reduce the amount of oil consumption that ive been experiencing. since i have a new turbo, my old turbo was ruled out. and this stuck valve is currently the prime suspect. i guess ill see thanks for all your help -pete

so let me get this right. a stuck valve could be the cause for the excessive burning oil ive been experiencing? before i throw a new head on, i want to be sure that it will help.

i believe his car is an NA

$1500 is way too much for a car in that condition. i got mine over 5 years ago for $1800 with minimal rust and in running order. if you like that car and are ready for the full time job of owning a supra, then bargain him down to 750. thats more reasonable. welcome to sm and good luck

on average i get 11-13 mpg with mixed highway and city. on long trips if i dont step on it i get around 16 if im lucky. been trying to fix whatever is causing for years but havent been successful

wish i could have made it.... how did everyone do on the strip? any impressive runs?

not till thursday... ive got class every day till then. ill post pics when i take it off

they shouldnt be breaking unless your tightening them on with a breaker bar. chances are that your overtorqueing every time you tighten one. always use a torque wrench when tightening lugs nuts.

i feel you... ill never buy a motor like that again. im assembling my newest motor. forged internals, etc. only machining done by a shop. cant wait till this summer to get the new built motor in. ill have to settle with a stock motor till then.

oh really.... well i dont recommend them. their motor only lasted a few years

ive got a boss comp series 67mm with the bb. i havent really pushed it yet until i get the new motor in. it only on low boost for now (8psi). but it spools real fast. even after i shut off the car i can hear it spinning for a minute or so. ive heard that the ceramic ball bearing virtually...

The company is just called Jasper. They sell remanufactured motors and trannys ready to drop in. At the time i was desperate and couldnt wait to get mine rebuilt.