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not a clue as to the limits of the stock lines. Im betting money on it your fine considering im running an identical setup and i dd mine with no issue for fuel. (same tunner/pump/fpr/Inj etc...w/sp61 at 15-18psi)

^^ and map sensor. (critical.) Any system (piggy back or standalone) that allows you to convert to speed density will allow the removal of the afm. that said speed density is a highly calculated guess. Works great but better response is said to be had from switching to a true MAF setup...

totally forgot about this on my car. When i had the safc i noticed similar readings. Night time with the head lights and fog lights on made it worse! looks like ive got my project for the week!

toyo tacoma clutch here. Its green and a bit longer, puts the fan a tiny bit closer to the radiator and kicks in sooner (175F comes to mind).

called a block tester. you can rent the tool/kit from autozone and buy the chemical agent for $7. make sure the tool has not been pulled apart. You need an air tight seal

those bolts should be 7t by the way. Just did this, fucking pita. Couldnt get a tq wrench on the block mounts to save my life (motor in car).

do you measure the diameter of the bolt head or the bolt threads?

You should refrain from posting in the tech section.

^ didnt know this! any reason to this? my driver side has been getting loose after a few weeks of driving. Guess what gets tightened down first... You can trim the helicoil so its not so long before inserting it to if that helps. If mine strips completly ill be time-certing it (or what...

^ your build thread has provided us with lots of "fuckin piece wont work" pics ;). very glad to have it! with the battery gone, why not go through the fender there??

toss an oem hg back on there and call it a day. (assuming the surfaces are flat.) Stock one will handle just fine with stock/or decent tune with the right mods. other wise pull the block and fork over the money to have everything surfaced (might as well rebuild the bottom end imho).

on a side note.... my stock sender/gauge read 40psi at cold start but aftermarket and mechanical read 65-70psi. stock sender wouldnt top 30psi after fully warmed up at any rpms yet aftermarket hits 30psi at 2000rpms and 45-50 at 27-3000rpms (fully warm, 30+ minutes of stop and go traffic). Ive...

stock gauge/sender here and never seen the gauge go over a tick below half. keep in mind my aftermarket has hit up to 210F and the stock gauge was still in the same position. If the stockers moving up, your getting HOT.

remove the plugs then crank it. results?

havent talked to him in a while. he's been busy with the new job last i heard. Also still a funky tps issue or something...

i can back this up. On the highway with the ac on full blast in 105F heat the car slowly crept up 10-15 degrees hotter then it did at stop and go traffic. Highway speeds are where the undercover is said to be of benefit and i clearly saw this in the summer. My car came with out one but will...

id like to see the 2jzgte ecu in a 7mgte honestly... next project maybe? well the timing maps might be more then the 7m can handle. 22 degrees at full tilt is the word through the grapevine at sf. in for the kaboom or success...

Ill pull out the volt meter tomorrow and play with this again. The simple fact that ecu actually adjusted fuel on me is what has me wondering why... even a code present shouldnt let the ecu adjust fuel should it?

no codes at the time (i checked), the car litterly ran perfect in open loop and then the next start up showed a vf reading of 3.5 V. This took about 3 days before i ran into issues. I have gone back to closed loop ecu control and no codes yet (about a month iirc). As soon as the vf reading...

the tsrm