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link = no dice^

You could stick the sensor right behind the air filter. Runs a bit richer (well, before tuning) but creates the safety net grimjack speaks off. try putting the stocker (IC) back on and see if you get a better drop in temps through the IC. Other wise you might try re mounting the AIT sensor...

crap i totally blanked on the "metal" part. nope im speaking of the paper stuff. id imagine a sheet of the graphite/ metal gaskets that will with stand the egt's of the mani will cost a bit more...

orillies (sp?) has the sheets for under $10. I used this in a pinch for my dp to catback flange and havent had it leak yet! (7-8months, 4-5,000 miles) Coat it evenly with the copper spray or exhaust gasket maker (usually red). as far as it holding up to the waste gate temps at the...

stock one is cheaper... not more then $150 last i checked

mine doesnt hold rest pressure... AT ALL. other then an extra 2 revolutions in the morning ive never seen it affect anything else. Aeromotive's arent supposed to hold pressure. At least according to their tech department and my car. 30-40 at idle is a huge gap. it should sit perfectly...

what does the larger gap do? more complet burn? ive been running .028 with no issues. sp61, 3"tbe, 15psi, full 2.5" IC/IC piping etc...

less then a week for mine. i placed it online and then called the next day to see what they could do about the $20 shipping fee for a bushing.. They refunded me a large portion of shipping and verified my order was getting boxed and shipped that day. guess its hit or miss...

new mounts in. they raised the motor up to the point that the fan was hitting the custom shroud top. my findings are that the previous owner built the shroud around the fans location with the old mounts. The old mounts let the motor sit a bit lower but once they ripped in two the tq over...

word.. just got mine in today, installs in the morning... curious to see what it feels like with out a 2 piece mount. (98 mk4's)

another solution is the OEM mk4 mounts.

1100whp was so last year... *kidding* guessing you put this motor together? who tuned it?

^ from there you have to know where and how your pulling fuel or adding. user tune mid point? ve table? tps enrichment? mainscale? etc... if these seem odd to you reread the manual before adjusting anything!!

not likely that ford fluid will help if your already hearing noise... gear whine maybe, but not grinding.

stop wasting time and test the stupid afm output. measure hz from the ks to e1 circuit at the afm connector. Shave back a bit of wire on each and presto... look in the tsrm for pin out. i sense this conversation going south...

pm me, never even knew i had this message

maft pro.. You can log everything it does (makes wot tuning stupid easy as well as off throttle tuning). Timing monitor and control that work as verified with timing gun and a lot more features as well...

^ was that lack of oil on the thrust bearings(or thrust bearing that was being pushed on by the PP)? spill the beans merlin..

subtract the mainscale adjustment from the off boost areas and zero out mainscale. That way you can *safely* get into wot tuning and work your way from rich to lean. Hook up timing monitor too. You need to calibrate it with a timing light though...

Check all the sensor readings. Make sure things are in expected ranges. After that as long as setup and configuration is correct might try adding or pulling main scale and see how the car acts. also what is mp at key on with the motor OFF?