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maybe try a search or two? a properly shrouded working cltuch fan and cooling system work perfectly. Only true upgrade is the radiator. http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=161844&highlight=tundra...

interesting place to leak from! isnms, can you see the plug on the back through one of the trans inspection plates? ive got a nice layer of sludge built up on the back of the block in front of the flywheel, not sure what has allowed the build up back there...

Sounds more like it. congrats!

900 rpms is not the corret idle. maybe if you set your tps the ecu would activate the ISC. just a thought... also you cant set timing correctly with the tps our of adjustment and a high idle. stop boosting the stupid car and fix it! take it to a shop and spend the $100 to let them set it...

look it up in the tsrm, there is a step by step in there. Id take the TB off the car, makes it a bit easier.

valves - sewing machine when in clearance. Valve noise should be .5 : 1 with rpms and starts at idle and just gets louder with higher revs. Other noises will drown this out in higher rpms though. When mine were out of clearance, it made quite the racket/ clatter from 1000-2500rpms or so. I...

there is a full breakdown on how to shim it over on the "other" forum. The guy goes through how to do it all and what not, but id by a used diff and then reshim it or rebuild it on my own. Nothing worse then a time crunch on things like this...

^ me two

solved?

did you remove the pre turbo intake hose that has the pcv line attached to it? (i hope). If you didnt and just removed the afm or airfilter your pushing air into the crank through the valve cover ports (VERY BAD for your seals). id do a comp. test and leak down test for peace of mind...

just undo the hood shocks (lift supports) and lay it back onto the glass. Put a blanket or something between the two. A few guys have said removing the valve covers helps too

^ that is amazingly above average for an unshimmed pump. I see 40-50psi by 2000rpm(hot) and thats pretty much where it stays after that... 10psi at hot idle. Full flow oil cooler is the only mod to oil system

psi means nothing when you can safely tune for it.

^ its in the tune.

ac pressure is in the 150-200+psi range high side (in the tx heat more like 230psi+ ), can this handle that ALL the time? also with out some sort of expansion valve, its going to be a heat exchanger for the freon...think heater for the air. Guess you could run it on the low side of the ac...

driftmotion sells a kit. Just make sure who ever does it knows what they are doing.

(reply to K shan) ^ id consider somthing bigger then dual walbros. Also considering walbro has never offically said their stuff will last on strait e85 would have me looking down a different path. do you even know how much fuel your really going to need? you know there are calculators out...

^ hks vpc system (old) or maft pro with map sensor and ait sensor. (new) Expect about $5-600. Well worth it though as the maft system allows for a LOT of tweaking in various modes. There are a few other piggy backs that will do this, these two are the most common here though. otherwise...

consider a WBo2 part of the upgrade for safety. Even then its only going to tell you what you need to know and not allow you to adjust it. (think afpr, safc etc... needed..)

^ lol, this car is never good enough (very bad habit). Im always "upgrading", and until i can fork over the cash for a motec, tuning flaws piss me off :D