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maybe the timing alteration has the cooling effect on the egt's isnms. Ive never seen this unit before but it looks cool! Does it tap in the same as the safc and neo's or how does it control fuel injection?

you shouldnt need a turbo timer if you drive accordingly. I started a thread at mkiiitech a while back asking about cool down etc. Basically, dont put it away wet...

you should t the tb back into it like stock. no tb port = no vac at 95% of engine run time (anytime your not in boost). put it back to stock

that right there proves my point. Its not piossible for the s-afr to control the powering of the ecu. Why did it work after you wiggled some wires? bad wiring...

^ back up there. your car should start just fine but in failsafe mode. the only thing the s-afr should hinder is the afm input to the ecu should it not power up. other wise if its wired in correctly its visibly showing you an issue with the ecu's power supply. No power to ecu = no power to s-afr

i daily drive mine and nothing that hasnt been owner induced. i got "lucky" but paid more for it up front. worth it to me...

dont know, a log with your bin would help. have you asked bob over at fullthrottletech?

trying to force open loop for maftpro ptt here and for the last 3 days pulling the nbo2 sensor has worked perfectly. However tonight i went to get a few logs and the ecus showing a vf signal and tossing my tune out the window.... anybody seen this before? o2 is not on the car! 89 7mgte stock...

i dont know why the ol'timers HAVE to be the ones to answer this. why the concern with this?

im guessing its a full flow setup^ and in which you NEED to loop the lines. Stock setup you could shim the cooler relief valve shut for a short term fix ive heard of it with brake lines from dirt getting into the mesh and rubbing between the metal and rubber creating a hole.... never seen...

next time block off the isc and pcv ports :)

its not based on rpm. its air flow.

ohms will only tell you the IAT sensor built into the afm sensor housing. shave some insulation off the ks and E1 wires at the sensor plug and measure Hz. Warm idle should be 25hz or so and should rise smoothly with rpms.

the two stock pullers on the driver side have been adequate except on the 105+ days when i was in bumper to bumper traffic for 30+ minutes. in those situations i saw 210 with aftermarket water temp gauge. Sometimes a bit higher but the car began to shut things off (ac) and temps drop. other...

i dont think your fully getting it... if you wait for symptoms, you will be replacing the clutch.

LMAO sometimes i wish! new line shows it...

those are inline, right? (from the pic)

No clutch play will burn the clutch up

no play is going to burn the clutch up fast....

if this is the first time in texas, you can get it inspected at any shop (meaning out of county that doesnt do tail pipe sniffers). If not, i had to register mine out of county at a friends house to avoid this exact issue. other wise id think e85 and maybe a stock cat with good stoich af...