Yeah, that's way this feels too...you can feel it through you whole body. And the fireball is about 3-4 times the size of a Supra...gotta clean your shorts out afterward! LOL
No...never had that one. But I did have a jet motor compressor stall...shot a fireball out both ends of the engine. Felt like somebody hit my seat with a sledge hammer! Talk about scaring the crap out of you...LOL
What's the condition of your brake lines? The rubber ones from the wheel well to the calipers. I replaced mine with stainless steel lines...the sponginess I experienced was from the old rubber lines expanding when pressure was applied. The stainless lines made a huge difference...I used DOT 4...
I understand a LSD modifer will eliminate chatter...how much do you use? The differential uses about 1.5 quarts...will a problem result if too much modifer is added?
Got a completely re-built (bearings, seals, etc) differential with a brand new LSD carrier inside...3.90 gear. What is the best brand of oil to use and is a LSD friction additive necessary?
Thanks!
I saw one on another guys car...he told me it was a PWR. I don't remember the exact thickness, but my CSF was about 3/16" thicker. I donno...maybe he was BS'ing me it was a PWR...I didn't look at the front.
I have the CSF...it's a thick Mofo...more capacity than the Fluidyne or PWR. A true dual core radiator at a much cheaper price. It's just not a "pretty" as the Fluidyne or PWR...I'll take performance over "pretty" any day!
Yes you can...I used these guys:
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/
Sound Performance does an upgrade on the Auto as well, but are a little more expensive. Stay away from Level 10 like the plague.
This is not something you really want to do yourself, unless you have experience...
I helped a friend of mine with the same problem. It was just like IJ said...unbolted the rear tranny mount, put a floor jack under it, tilted the motor forward. Head cleared no problem...you're gonna need at least two guys helping ya tho :biglaugh:
Most likely it's due to how quick boost builds between 1-2 gear due to the rapid increase in rpm between those gears...you actually may be spiking a little above 11-12 psi, thus inducing fuel cut. The factory boost gauge is rather slow...not to mention incaccurate.
If you're running a stock AFM/injectors...that's the just about boost psi that fuel cut will occur at. You can try to turn the metering screw on the AFM all the way out, but thats about it. Otherwise, (without upgrades) get a manual valve boost controller and limit your boost to 10 psi or so...
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