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Yep...saw one with TWO additional injectors on the 3000 Pipe. You have to have a controller though...HKS Rubic? I think :dunno:

Increase your fuel pressure in increments. Mine (same set-up) would start hesitating at higher boost...when I installed the Walbro, solved the problem. I also run my pressure at about 40 psi. You might just have an old, tired fuel pump. Also, did you drill out the "J" tube to remove the...

Yeah...been there. Went through 3 "brand new" alternators on my son's truck before we got one that worked right. I did check the grounds...I've got additional grounding straps going to the block on both sides and a new grounding wire going to the battery. I guess I was hoping you guys...

Clockwise tightens it up to raise the psi it holds.

Ok...here's what I did: 1) Alternator went bad...showed 11.5 volts on the dash meter; plus it was very hot to the touch 2) Replaced battery w/ brand new one 850 amp I bought a MR2 alternator '91 (w/ powersteering)...thought I'd upgrade to a 100 amp one since the old alternator was bad...

Ohhh...I misunderstood the problem. Could be the starter solenoid. If you can see it on top of the starter, tap on it with a metal rod (be careful not to ground the hot wire) while someone tries to start the car. If it starts that's great, but it means it's going bad.

:withstupi Been using one since I did my re-build...motor revs, boosts smooth as glass. Did a lot of reading on this before I decided to go with the pulley (including an e-mail discussion with Unorthadox) and came to the conclusion that adverse effect would be minimum. In all fairness, I...

My CPS looked like that...I cut the wires, spliced new ones to the connector, and used shrink tubing to re-insulate. Check the harness side wires that go across the top front of the cam covers...mine were in pretty bad shape there too.

That's what I like to see...a mean, clean Mk III :bling: Glad you're happy with the work Jeff :icon_bigg

Thanks for the correction...I based my statement on research I did when I concluded there was a problem with the studs stripping on the exhaust side of the head. Here's a couple of articles where they mention helicoils are used in aerospace...

Try a 3/4" high torque air impact wrench or if you can get your hands on an electric one, that would work too. You could try to heat the bolt with a propane torch, but be careful the crank pulley has rubber in it and there's the crank seal right behind it. Good luck...these can be a royal PIA!

Here's a little more light reading for ya... :icon_bigg http://www.jza70.com/articles/diffs_lsd/index.html

Very true...hence the helicoils. :biglaugh: Work out to be 2-3 times stronger than the aluminum itself (that's why they're used in the aircraft industry). One of the problems with this head is the exhaust manifold will work itself loose from the heat cycling...the extra 10-15 ft/lbs of...

Gotta get em at Toyota...I check w/ ARP and no luck. Tried to see if the Chevy/ford ones would work (with helicoils), but they're not big enough to drill out the hole to remove the 10mm threads. Soooo, ended up using Toyota ones, but did get ARP stainless 10mm 12 point nuts and washers...

Check your wiring on the CPS. Mine was bad on the CPS itself from the housing to the connector...the insulation was brittle & cracked. Heat seemed to affect it. Sometimes it worked fine, other times it just died. I figured it out by wiggling the wires and was able to cause it/fix it. Seems...

10mm is way too much! 10mm = 1cm = ~ 3/8" All you want to do is raise the pressure about 10 psi...1/10" - 1/8" is plenty to put additional pressure on the relief valve spring to achieve the extra 10 psi. An old rule of thumb...you want about 10 psi of oil pressure for each 1000 rpm. This...

Oh Man :wtf: I just re-read your 8mm shim on the pressure relief valve spring on the oil pump...the most you want to do is about 90 thousands thickness. That about 2 washers worth and will give you about 10 more psi of pressure. Using 5-30 oil, that gives me about 20 psi (warm) at...

This is a pretty decent price for Ross pistons...been using them for 6 months now. No issues...nice quiet & smooth. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubishi-Toyota-V6-Supra-Ross-Forged-Pistons-n-Rings_W0QQitemZ8043102913QQcategoryZ33623QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

They will fit both heads just fine...but The 7M-GE covers has the "slot" further back for the "Y" pipe to go to the throttle body. The 7M-GTE has the "slot" more forward for mounting the coil packs. So you really can't interchange them.

You mean like this? :icon_cool I used AN-12 fitting and hose though...closer to the stock hose ID. Plus it made installing a MR2 alternator a snap!