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They way you have it is correct...sounds like the line or oil cooler is clogged up.

Hmmm...check this out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8041441466&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Extrude honeing/porting is about the best you can get...

Flatlander has a stroker kit...don't know much about it http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/strokerkits_toyota2.html :dunno:

I had that on my old motor...it was the wiring coming out of the CPS. The insulation was brittle and cracked, had to re-wire the CPS. Check the harness wiring that goes across the front top of the motor...same thing.

Awwhh...thanks for the kind words guys, that was a "before" pic. I finished my motor build in late Aug, put it in, and got to drive it for a whole 3 weeks, then this guy turned into me. It went into the body shop in mid Oct and they took it completely apart, block sanded, modded the front...

:wtf: This is total :bsflag: I can't friggin believe it!

Thanks guys! I'm up in Cave Creek...worked on that motor for a year...pretty much every part has been upgraded. Got a SP61GT turbo on it and a really long list of supporting mods. I was going to wait on the paint job, but had a guy turn into me about half mile from my house (see pic). So...

Bearings - either is good...the more popular choice is the clevite bearings. The critical thing is to make the machine shop understand the clearences must be in spec...no sloppy work here, unless you want to develop rod knock again. :( I would have the crank balanced while you're there and...

Here's mine....'89 Turbo

Don't know about the head bolts, but the nuts/studs are torqued to 81 ft/lbs w/ moly lube or 105 ft/lbs w/ 30wt motor oil. Got the ARP spec sheet right here :biglaugh: