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Read this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15003

Ok...revive the thread...I just changed the alternator (again) and I still have the dash brake and battery lights. Very dim...this is driving me nuts! I tested the battery...good (12.5 volts). Cranked the car, voltage went up to 14.4 volts. Is there a fuse or some relay that runs these...

Now that is really friggin funny! :bowdown: And I feel exactly the same way too!

Yep...that would be it!

LOL She's reallllly happy when the boost kicks in :evil5:

You may be able to remove the pitting when the head is decked...depends on how deep. Just compensate for the thickness removed with a thicker MHG...Cometic will make almost any thinkness you would need. Head Job: - Decking (kinda goes unsaid) - 3 angle valve at minimum - New seals -...

Yes...it's the line that screws into the bottom of the FPR (assuming it's an Aeromotive FPR) and joins the fuel return line on the bottom of the car with a nipple/clamp fitting using a short rubber hose piece. You can remove the "J" tube completely and replace it with a plain cover and stock...

You know...you're right. I just re-read the post and I answered the wrong question :icon_conf The FPR is on the return side, the FPD (removed in my pics) is on the feed side where the "J" tube is not even in the loop. Most guys just drill out the "J" tube or just bypass it completely from...

Here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92 There's a lot of stuff like this in the Reference Section :naughty:

That's where I got mine...$90 shipped :icon_bigg

I went from the fuel junction on the block direct to the fuel rail, removing the FPD all together. AN-6 line & fittings; the fuel rail fitting is 14x1.50 mm AN-6...I think the junction fitting is the same, but to be honest, I can't remember. The hose end on the fuel rail is a 120 deg AN-6; the...

Teflon tape will shred as you screw the fitting in. Even though it's unlikely, if a piece breaks off inside the fuel rail, it will go in an injector and trash it...permanently. Even with teflon paste, you want to leave the bottom couple threads bare...when you screw the fitting in, the paste...

AN fittings don't have a specific torque setting (as far as I know), but I do know you don't want to excessively tighten them down either. Mine are about a quarter turn past finger tight. AN fittings seal on the 37 deg cone that mates together. They resist vibration very well.

Fuel has a nasty habit of running along the rail...the fuel pooling in the clearance slots actually points me to the fittings. Check the fittings...I used teflon paste (got it at ACE Hardware - don't use teflon tape) on the theads that screw into the rail. If you removed the FPD, that fitting...

There's also the seal that fits into the head...get them from Toyota.

The biggest PIA is dropping the tank. For the pump itself, just splice the wires for the harness. You have to use something to secure it to the bracket...I used a piece of 14 gauge copper wire. While you got the tank off, you probably want to change the fuel filter...much easier to get to...

Both the Walbro and Mk IV can be used. You have to change the wiring harness on the Walbro. IMO, the fuel pressure curve is superior on the Walbro. BTW...I have the Walbro installed. Can't hear it at all.

Take a look here: http://www.supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=41 The menu on the left takes you through various stages of a rebuild. Also: - Make sure the front plate (aluminum part with the water pump housing) is attached to the block when it's decked...

Fuel cut occurs when the stock ECU senses an "over boost". It varies with a stock set-up like yours, but somewhere around 10-12 psi (easily done by shimming the turbo waste gate) the ECU will basically cut the gas off to the injectors. There's no doubt when it occurs...really gets your...

It'll be just fine...that's a good start to the upgrade path. When you start putting more air into the motor (more boost like Red Dragon said) or go the Lex AFM route, that's when you need to up the fuel via bigger injectors, fuel pump, FPR.