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Replied to your PM. My downpipe is coated too...still melted the speedo. You definately need to protect it from the heat; this set-up places it way too close to the downpipe.

I second that...very nice job! :biglaugh:

The filter under it may be clogged up with carbon as well. You have to remove the ISC from the manifold (2 bolts) and the filter is under it in a recess on the manifold...it looks like a little spoke mag wheel. Don't try and clean it...buy a new one from Toyota. To clean the ISC itself...

You got the same SP-61 set-up I do. I wanted to warn you about the speedo cable...if it's too close to the downpipe, it will melt. Once the heat gets to the plastic inner core that covers the cable itself, it will melt too then turn solid when the car is parked. Next time you move, the cable...

The ISC is next to the throttle body toward the front of the car...attached to a flange on the upper intake. Warm idle should be 650 rpm.

Any source for 10x1.25mm or 1.0mm thread bolts? The stock ones are 10x1.0mm....30mm long with a small flange head would be pefect.

Thanks! Red Dragon's ride looks really nice. I'm really liking his back seat removal...gonna have to hit him up for sme pics :naughty:

PM me with what ya want coated and I'll give you a quote...the nice thing is you won't have to pay shipping since you're in Phoenix :biglaugh:

How much boost? You running a Lex AFM?

Jaws Gear is under the Vendors Section...that's how I initially contacted them. The Website is http://jawsgear.net/store/catalog/. The phone # is on the 1st page...I talked to Jeff Wilson...he has experience with the Mk III. I had to measure the distance between the tip of the tranny output...

That's a steel shaft from DSS...they charge $449 for an aluminum one. This is the 1st time I dealt with Jaws...they have a good product and it fit perfect. Worked for me.

I'd take the head off and install a Cometic MHG w/ ARP studs...just my 2 cents. Take a look at the condition of the valves and pistons while you're there.

+2 for this solution :naughty:

Don't have any HP numbers...It did feel more solid on acceleration and the shifts were much nicer. What I was really glad for was the racket the damn stocker was making completely disappeared :biglaugh:

Install was straight forward...didn't even have to remove the CAT back. All there is to it is 4 bolts on the differential end, take the cross brace off, and 2 bolts on the center bearing...just slides right out. You can really tell the difference in weight...the stock shaft is damn heavy...

Got my aluminum driveshaft installed. Bought it from Jeff at Jaws Gear...I must say the quality is top notch. Very nice welds, ultra heavy duty U-joints, perfect fitment, weights about 12 lbs...plus it was about $50 cheaper than the competition. Take a look at the pics. Here was my...

Try another machinist...same situation as yours; my machinist was able to do the front plate. I know a couple of guys that just took a belt sander to it. It has nothing to do with the head gasket seating properly, so whatever. You DO want to use Toyota FIPG or copper RTV across the top of it...

If the center bearing has play in it...it causes the "clunk" and that gets worse as the rubber gets old. After a while, you might hear/feel a kind of "buzzing" sound as the play get worse. The other problem with this bearing is when the car sits for a length of time, the heavy driveshaft...

Needs to be in the "Want to Buy" Section...

Just got one from Jeff at Jaws Gear...checkout the vendors list. It was a bit cheaper (including shipping) than those from the other places I've seen. The driveshaft looks really good, very nice quality, the welds are beautiful (and aluminum is a PITA to weld)...I'm planning to install it...