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Speaking of this sensor...does it provide any input to the ECU? Or is it strickly to the box that runs the guage behind the dash instrument panel.

Pretty sure he's talking about the flange on the bottom of the CT26. You can do either...I'd helicoil it myself...you can use the original metric size if you go this route. If you use a larger bolt/stud, you will likely have to make the oil flange bolt hole larger too.

I'm pretty sure they are different...the turbo hose convolutes around before it goes down to the bottom of the radiator. Give Jay Marks Toyota a call...I'm sure Jeff can fix ya up.

Sorry for getting so far off topic Shawn. You have two heater hoses on that side...one from the top of the head feeding the heater valve, then from the valve to the firewall. There is also a small 90 deg hose from the back of the head to the hard line that goes around the block...it's hard to...

Hmmm...and of course, I live in one of the most dusty areas of the country you can imagine :3d_frown: Guess it's time to fab a box and get rid of the K&N.

You got it IJ...otherwise you'd be the marble in a mason jar :1zhelp:

Keeping this motor running at ops temp can be a challenge out here. I learned my lesson on the cooling system the hard way...I keep the rad cap, thermostat, hoses, etc in top shape. My Supra runs perfect now too, but you can't let the cooling system go even a little bit or you're asking for...

LOL...I just finished a Google search and read that article. What are you using for an intake? Stock box w/ a Delco filter?

Love your rear speaker pods :icon_razz Where did ya get those?

I've seen two AFM electronic boxes trashed because carb cleaner was used on them. Not a good idea. I imagine that a careful cleaning with Freon to remove stuck debris would be ok...how about using the canned compressed gas used to blow clean circuit boards? Why is the K&N filter bad? Does...

I should have been more clear...and yes, that is what I was talking about...as the engine goes through daily run cycles and is allowed to cool between runs. It will do this continuously as the engine is run, then allowed to cool down. You are correct, a healthy system will allow for the...

Shouldn't be a problem...your coater is going to bead blast the part (he should anyway) and remove all rust. These coatings are only a few mils thick. If it concerns you, just have him mask the mating surface. That's not good...:nono: The coating will not fill the crack and when he bead...

I was stupid and tried these...once. Never again!

Parts exposed to oil require a through strip...powdercoat does not tolerate that very well at all. Heat from the motor will make it worse. That's good...Jet Hot stearling is a nice finish, but it's a 1300 deg rated coating. EGT on a Supra routinely hits 700 deg C (1290 deg F)...right at...

And invest in a good fire extinguisher :eek:

OMG! :bowdown: I would love to have one of those!

We were talking about engine parts...powdercoating will work for wheels and is durable. You put it on exhaust parts and it will cook before you get a mile down the road. But, hey...who am I to say. Powdercoat the exhaust manifold and post some before and after pics...after you run the motor...

You want to paint the engine block with hi-temp paint...powdercoat or ceramic will seal the block and retain too much heat. For the head...clean it up really well and leave it bare...same reason. Exhaust parts (manifold, turbine housing, downpipe) should be ceramic coated...a 2000 deg rated...

Old dog here :naughty: I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up! :icon_bigg

MAFT Pro is a much better option...does what a VPC & FCD can do, plus much more.