Search results

I order my Wix filters from these guys...got 3 cars, so I just stock up at once :naughty: http://www.rockauto.com/

Jeff is correct...there is no "frame off" on a Supra and you do want to replace parts (w/ Toyota OEM) that are going to take more labor to fix than it's worth. My paint job cost about $5K...the shop stripped it, filled in all the little dings, and block sanded for prep. Replaced front & rear...

That's great! I saw the "P" in the part number and jumped the gun to a Fram...as we both know, the Fram filter sucks!

Yep...re-locating the filter is the way to go. Lets me use the Wix 51342...almost 50% larger than stock. Is that a Fram filter you're using? I hope not...might want to read this: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#n1515

Here you go: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92 This was an '89, but I pretty sure you can do this on the pre-'89 Supras. All that would be different is the wire color coding.

You would need to go 50% toluene to get about 100 octane. Here's the math: (A x gas octane) + (B x 114 or 117) / (A + B) = Octane Value A = gallons of gas B = gallons of toluene 114 = octane value of toluene 117 = octane value of xylene Not too sure I'd want to go to the 50% level...

The only reason I mentioned about cleaning the AFM sensor is I know several guys that did when they swapped to a Lex housing. Cleaning the sensor with carb cleaner kinda makes sense while you got it out...it's really not a good idea. Everyone I know that did this started getting weirdness from...

Yeah...neither Lowes or Home Depo had toluene. Gotta check Sherwin Williams out...the xylene was $14 a gal at HD. The burn temperature is the biggest case against the xylene...it's higher than toluene. Not a problem here in Phoenix though! :D

I didn't realize we were talking about two different cars...my apologizes. Test your AFM electronics...did you clean the sensor in the AFM by any chance when you had all the parts off? Sounds like the ECU is retarding timing for some reason. Could be the water temp sensor causing the ECU...

LOL...common sense prevails! :drink1: BTW...I was gonna say the same thing you did on the straight edge post :icon_bigg

You know...you're really starting to peak my interest in this piece of equipment :evil2:

Are you getting a code 34 as well? Before you replace all that, you might want to take a look at the knock sensor re-wire. Shaeff was selling a kit that made it pretty simple...look here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2943 Don't know if he's still doing it...shoot him a PM.

Have a buddy that has the Blitz...nice unit. The dual solenoid design really holds the higher boost levels.

Seriously guys...the TSRM (under EFI System) tells you what the codes mean. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_026.html It would really help if ya looked it up, post the discription of the code, and say what you've checked in the trouble area listed. A good discription of...

I read up on that too...ATF or light turbine oil seems to be the choice for adding a lubricant. 3-4 oz to a gallon of toluene or xylene. Personally, I don't think it is necessary...the gas in the tank has sufficient additives to provide all the lubrication the engine needs. We're not adding...

Found a little more info on this: Xylene is the "X" of what is called BTX, or BTX catalytic reformate. The "B" is benzene, while "T" is toluene. All three of these aromatic hydrocarbons feature the very stable benzene ring, which is a series of alternating single and double bonds between...

Chemically toluene and xylene are an aromatic circular hydrocarbon chain...almost identical. Xylene is not as evaporative though. Now, if you were talking about Isopropyl Alcohol, Tertiary Butyl Alcohol, Methanol or Ethanol...all are corrosive. Attacks rubber, magnesium, and aluminum...

Yeah...I'll bet it does :biglaugh: I just put a gallon of Xylene in a tank of 91 Octane myself...felt really strong...very noticeable. :burnout:

When you change the cam cover gaskets out, torque your valve covers down per the TRSM spec...note that it's in in/lbs :naughty: Make sure you tighten in an end-to-end pattern kinda like torquing down a head gasket...gives you an even seal. I used stainless allen head cap screws with a star...

Check your plugs going to the ECU...you CAN plug one in the wrong place. I've got the Dunce cap to prove it. Causes all kind of weirdness.