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Damn! That is a friggin work of art...hats off to Jon :drink1:

Hi Guys...My motor has less than 5K on a complete rebuild. Been running great, boosting to 18 psi on a SP61GT Turbo. Here's my question (I've never seen this) and was wondering if it was a cause for concern. On a dead cold start, coolant temp is at zero as expected. Car warms up, coolant...

I agree...also consider that rumor has it that Powerhouse Racing is discontinuing support for the MAP ECU.

1) What IJ said :biglaugh: 2) Make sure the electronic harness is connected properly and the ground is good. There's a speed sensor (driver's side rear of tranny)...if you changed trannys, you might have an earlier version. I had to swap mine out w/ my old tranny...did a lot like yours...

Mine is "supported" with a diamond mesh secured at the top and bottom...does that and protect the intercooler from rock hits. And there's a LOT of rocks on the road here in AZ. Take a close look at the pic and you can see the mesh...it's over the fog light holes too. <Supraman7MGTE>...see...

From what I've read, it should burn very clean...Xylene is an option as well. Has a slightly higher (R+M)2 content.

Here you go :cool: .

Hmmm...different thread, same subject :icon_idea http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17442

You might want to read through the link again...:3d_frown:

Here's some more info on this: http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html http://www.team.net/sol/tech/octane_b.html

Yep...got one too. It's tight, but it does fit.

Did you top off the oil after you ran it the 1st time? Thinking that it may just be your oil filter, oil cooler, and lines filling up.

Here ya go...18x8 front, 18x9 rear...RPM wheels.

You will have to wire your volt meter and you can remove the box that feeds the boost guage.

Ohhh...I see. Aren't those the spray bars on the afterburner? I know on the F110 the AB is variable through 5 stages based on throttle position to the AB fuel control.

The screw did help to get a stable idle, but that's about it...the ECU compensated for everything else. When I bought my Lex AFM, the mofified screw came with it...I don't think buying just the screw is worthwhile though.

Conditions do affect the oil you use...one thing you want to look at is viscosity at start and operating temperature. The colder outside it is, the larger the difference in temperature to get the oil warmed up the "10" thickness that automotive engine designers shoot for. The thicker the oil...

We're actually talking about the same thing...the hot side of the engine. The F110 and F101 share the same core...both have 2 low pressure and 1 high pressure turbine. The biggest difference is the F110 has 3 fan and 9 compressor stages, the F101 has 2 fan and 9 compressor stages. If ya...

That's the way I did it :naughty: But, Figgie's way is better and faster. Change your oil & filter after about 500 miles or so, do it again at about 1,500 miles and then switch to synthetic.

LOL...you're right about that! Had no clue :biglaugh: