You're talking about the engine lift hooks...right? Not the engine motor mounts to the car. I left the intake manifold on when I did it...not a problem. A leveler is a very good thing to have, especially if you are taking the tranny out at the same time...allows you to tilt the whole thing...
No...it's not too late...unless you already got a BHG that is. You want to take a breaker bar (not the torque wrench) and just "crack" them till they barely move. Re-torque to the spec you used orginally...81 ft/lbs w/ moly or 105 ft/lbs with motor oil. I'm going to go with the Toyota TRSM...
With ARP hardware...not a problem (wish I'd thought of that!). With stock head bolts...potential problem due to stretch...especially when torqued above Toyota spec.
And (as IJ pointed out...thanks!) with the Cometic HG, according to their spec, the only time you don't have to re-torque is if the hardware used has been heat cycled. New studs/bolts have never been heat cycled
Is the u-joints used a factor? On my aluminum single piece, it actually cured a lot of vibration problems I was having with the 2 piece shaft....course it could have been the worn out 2nd tube as you mentioned. I've done several over 130 mph runs with no abnormal vibration on this shaft at...
On a car old as this...yep. You'll have to get a Toyota hose cause of the bend where it attaches to the head...unless you can find a 3/4" hose at the parts store with the bend and long enough to reach the HCV. It's not too bad to replace...kinda tight around the head.
But, I hope the head...
IJ is correct...harmonic vibration. I see you got it balanced; is it steel or aluminum? Aluminum has more of a dampening effect. Are all your bushings good on the rear? Especially the sub-frame bushing ;)
The flasher uses resistance to flash correctly...changing over to LED bulbs will do the exact same thing. I'll bet one of your bulbs is burned out or the corrosion you mentioned is causing a problem.
Sigh...the devil is always in the details. I swear you have to have a Masters Degree on this car to work on it ;)
So you have to just crack the stud nuts loose with a breaker bar to do the re-torque...correct? Following the TRSM bolt pattern as well.
No big deal I guess...I need to do a...
You would think so...tried to find them here in Phoenix in a fine or extra-fine (1.25mm or 1.0mm) thread, but no such luck. Don't want to use a std 1.5mm thread...I'm thinking Toyota had a reason for using the 1.0mm thread on the stock bolt. Any ideas on where to get the cap screws? And would...
That was the minimum RA requirement...the point being that the Cometic spec is a bit more forgiving than what you see with HKS, Greddy, etc. You can polish it to a surface RA of 0 and still be in spec...course your gonna pay for that too ;)
Here's Cometic's catalog...it's on page 3...
Cometic will just about make any custom thickness you would need.
BTW .025" is a LOT to take off a head...was it warped that bad? Toyota limits max warpage to .1mm = .0039" when facing the head. Machining .012" is quite a bit when facing a block too ;)...
You can use 3/8" bolts, nuts, and lock washers...I would use no less than a grade 10. There will be "slop" in the hole fitments cause 3/8" is slightly smaller than a 10mm.
I'm looking to get ARP's:
Bolts:
10x1.25, 35mm long, 12mm wrench size...part #'s 663-1004 (hex), 673-1004 (12 point)...
Hmmm...thes only wires I know about there are for the three prong plug to the alternator, but they are different colors from what you described according to the TRSM.
I had mine break off flush with the plug when I had to get a new alternator...got a plug from Tubbie and spliced it in...all...
Nah Man...you're not insane...you're really one of the more knowledgeable guys here. And I suffer from CRS (Can't Remember Shit) too...LOL ;)
The torques you posted were really close...as were a couple of the other guys. +/- 5-6 lbs torque will not cause a BHG. Having said that, it makes a...
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