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LOL :joshers: Suprajjang are you throwing any codes? I've got the same aftermarket parts (except for the downpipe) + a lot more...getting 20-22 MPG around town.

The stock electronics will work fine with the Lex AFM...DO NOT use carb cleaner on the sensor that goes inside the AFM to clean it. ;)

:eek:

Re-torque your studs while you got the cam covers off...check the torque on the cam retainers too.

And use one of these:

Actually...that is me over Sedona, AZ. Took a two ship up and did a little photo shoot a while back when I was still flying the F-16 :icon_cool

Well...it's either what we talked about earlier ( the sealant between the front plate & head) or the cam seal. Based on what you told me in your PM, I'm betting cam seal. Joel is right, you will have to pull the cam gear backing plate to know for sure. And replacing cam seals is not that...

You guys could shoot Auto Sport an e-mail...who knows, maybe the pre-'89 harness can be had :dunno:

Heehee...he got a big kick out of it. (shocked look on Jdubs face :icon_eek: ) The nice thing is a 172 has a pretty darn good glide ratio :naughty: Know the feeling well...is the Ivchenko a Russian motor? How is the cycle time before you gotta tear it down? Lost a motor in the Viper...

hey JJ do you happen to have a link to the UV leak detector you use? LOL...Fan stoppage is a bad thing. Gotta start looking around for the nearest piece of flat surface...it's not like you can just pull over ;) I can still remember when my instructor pulled the motor on me the 1st time in...

Yeah...a little bit on the block surface is probably no big deal. If you over do it though, it can interfer with the HG seal...and we know that's not a good thing. I'm not sure where exactly the oil comes from, (the two holes on the forward center of the block one is oil, one is the index...

Got this from Auto Sport Wiring...looks pretty much the same as the Fields patch harness: http://www.autosportwiring.com/products.htm#Toyota Kinda pricey at $139, but it does save you from splicing your factory harness and gives you a little more slack to solder the wires properly. It's a...

PM Quote Ok...I'm gonna respond to this and your PM. When the block was decked, the front plate should have been machined at the same time so the upper surface of the aluminum front plate is even with the top of the block. The top of the front plate can be a little lower, but not higher...

Is it coming from the forward part of the head between the top of the front plate (the big cast aluminum part with the water pump housing) and the head?

Same here...a really nice set of pipes :biglaugh:

Sparrows in the piping? LOL....:biglaugh:

Have you checked for any codes?

Ceramic coatings on your exhaust parts does wonders for engine bay temps...looks good too :naughty:

It is two pieces...the long cable going from the dash; a short cable going under the downpipe. The short one is easy to get to...just unscrew it from the fittings and see if the cable turns by hand. You can hook the longer cable up to a drill and run it at low speed...if your speedo works...

That's good! It's just a very good thing to check...if they do loosen up for whatever reason, then a BHG is the next thing to follow.