You don't loosen the nut/stud, you "crack" it to where it just barely moves. You do this to get an accurate torque reading when you re-tighten. As for me, I'm gonna use the ARP spec sheet for the torque settings...make sure you use the orginial setting for the lube used (moly or oil)
Got a set of those myself...they're nice!
BTW...note that they are typically sold as a price for each gear. You might want to do an eBay search for a better price ;)
Not with a 3000 + rpm stall :naughty:
An auto will keep the boost at peak as well...you won't lose rpm due to the shift. You can't out shift an auto...course driving ability helps a huge amount with a manual too. The 340E has to be built to take the higher HP numbers...it's expensive (in...
Nah...this is not about winning. Nice write-up BTW.
I don't disagree with what you said, but the majority of the folks on this forum are not engineers (there are quite a few here tho ;) ). All we have is the spec sheets...I've never said you should torque above spec on the ARP hardware. In...
Finally found a spec sheet for the ARP head bolts...3p141592654 posted it in another thread. Explains where the 75 ft/lb torque spec value floating around comes from...it's for use for aluminum heads.
I've been wanting to see this...it explains where the 75 ft/lbs torque value comes from. This is a spec sheet for the ARP Head Bolts...thank you.
FYI...the thread subject concerns ARP Head Studs
Or...check out eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPRA-turbo-7MGTE-TURBO-KNOCK-SENSORS-7mgte-sensor_W0QQitemZ8060201457QQcategoryZ46098QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Mechanical engineering = Yes . Rocket Science = No
;)
I'd like to know where all the different "spec" torque numbers come from you hear thrown around. I still can't find an ARP spec sheet for the bolts...
You're welcome...until IJ pointed out the "new hardware" vs. "heat cycled hardware" issue, I always thought you didn't have to re-torque myself. You could still crack your studs if you wanted to be on the safe side...the whole purpose is to get an accurate torque reading and it won't unload the...
If he used moly...81 ft/lbs is the spec. You could do this (assuming moly was used): Following the TRSM pattern, try the 1st one set at 81 ft/lbs. If you get the nut to turn, your mechanic used 75 ft/lbs. If it doesn't turn, crack the nut as previously discussed and go from there. You want...
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