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As do I...Valvoline Syn. No whine, no leaks.

IJ hit it -10 psi per 1000 rpm is a good rule of thumb. Your pressure is being produced as a result of bearing clearances...you got yours on the tight side of spec I'll bet. Keep in mind pressure is resistance to flow. Switch to a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil...it will flow better with a tight...

Actually the ATI dampner is a bit cheaper than a new one. Stock weights 11 lbs, the ATI weights 6.5 lbs iirc. Part #918525 ATI 410-298-4343 Get the dampner w/ the timing marks You will have to turn down your crank bolt flange to 1.780-1.810".

Well said!

The CSF is a good choice too...not as pretty as a PWR though!

Stock head bolts can easily take 72 ft/lbs of torque: From Reg Reimer's site:

Guys - this thread is 6 months old, the OP fixed his problem, the Cygnus site is back up (and has been for a long time) ;) sesshoumaru revived an old thread!

Heehee...I do ;) Still got my old Sears engine analyzer...with a dwell meter!

Incredible...shows what a little leverage will do for ya ;) http://j-walkblog.com/index.php?/weblog/posts/moving_big_rocks/

Gotta love American muscle ;) Yeah, my SS was fast...scary fast considering it handled like a boat!

30 years ;) First one was a 396 '70 Chevelle SS.

This is correct ;) Aluminum expands at almost twice the rate of steel...that combined with the factory torque on the head bolts (it's too low) causes the bolts to slowly loosen up over time. Eventually leading to the BHG we all know and love. The heat at the passenger side firewall area...

If you have not seen this, it's a good read for what you are doing: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38956 Don't forget the RTV at the top of the front plate per the TRSM locations...you'll have an oil leak if you do. Mrbaboon is telling you to do the same thing as I...

The reason your back head bolts were loose is from thermal expansion...specifically the difference in expansion rates between aluminum and steel. It happens at the rear of the motor because that is where the downpipe is....it's the hottest part of the engine bay. They are not failing or over...

Don't...you remove the clamping force and can compromise the seal. There's no point unless you have a BHG. Listen to your Dad ;) You do want to do a re-torque if you've never done one. Take the torque up to 70 ft/lbs in 2-3 passes using the TRSM pattern. Change your valve cover gaskets...

LOL...damn spell checker!

Are you talking about the "sensor" marked BVSV in this pic? The line routing goes like this: Small fitting on top/forward of TB to hard pipe that's in front of the 3000 pipe to the bottom nipple on the BVSV...top nipple runs to the canister fitting marked "purge" on the canister.

:naughty:

LOL...yep we need a list of most common misspelled words ::dunce:: Joe - ADEQ will nail you on the bi-annual inspection. Also you won't pass the sniffer test without an EGR (if you're thinking about removing it)...just leave it installed. Replacing the stock downpipe (and associated CAT on...

Hmmm...think he's likely fixed it by now? Might want to start paying attention to the post dates ;)