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Support goes both ways...when the profits fell off, HKS stopped making manifolds for the 7M sometime ago. Turbonetics also made (or contracted to make) a manifold a lot like this one iirc. Perhaps it's the same supplier?

If it's a high nickle alloy, it should hold up very well...especially if you get it ceramic coated ;)

I'd like to see a pic too ;) Showing the baffles inside would be a plus!

Yep! Dammit tools were the 1st precision guided munition discovered by man ;) It seeks the most expensive object in any room!

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts...

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks...in fact, an ester based oil (like Red Line) will cause seals to swell. It is an excellent conditioner. Synthetic oil will do a very good job of cleaning deposits in the motor...that includes the seals. If these deposits are the only thing stopping a leak...

+ =

Nick is making another very good point. This mentality is one I have a very hard time understanding...why would you remove parts & vac lines that are an integral part of an EFI engine? You're just begging for problems.

And it will...for a while...you have not run the motor in the summer yet ;) Oil thins out the hotter it gets...the 7M was engineered to run at an oil viscosity of 10-11 cst at 100 deg C. Over that temp, the oil will continue to drop viscosity wise. The hotter your oil is, the faster the...

QFT http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775

Well...kinda. I had just dropped a bunch of $$$ on some Crower rods and Ross pistons. More was going out for the head work. And I needed to order my turbo from SP when this pan popped up. Should have just bit the bullet and got it :icon_conf Kick myself in the arse everytime I think about it!

Yeah...my original studs came out with NP. I used 10 x 1.25mm Screw-Lock Helicoils...they are holding very well at 40 ft/lbs of torque. I do know what you're talking about Aaron...friend of mine had FUBAR'ed stud holes and even the 7/16" studs did not hold. We had to get 1/2" to 7/16" step...

Why would you even consider doing that? :3d_frown:

Same here...10mm studs and helicoiled all the holes. I did use ARP 10mm 12 point nuts though :naughty:

I do when I see that pan...had a chance to get one in very good shape for $300 and let it pass :3d_frown:

Ummm...mine blew a HG at 130,000. I re-built the motor and it's got over 10K on it running twice the boost. Whoever it is working on your car really doesn't have a clue about the correct way to make this engine run flawlessly...you need a new mechanic...badly. Is that the car's fault...I...

It's actually an O-ring. Make sure your motor is at TDC and take the CPS cover off 1st...note the position of the pick-up. Remove CPS and you'll see it around the CPS shaft.

Yellow/green is bad :3d_frown: