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^^^ Why doesn't it surprise me you have a plasma ;)

Hmmm...looks like cars piss you off quite a bit ;)

So, to re-cap. Looks like to me they used the factory bolts torqued to factory torque spec on a HKS MHG. Machined the head, but did not machine the block (they have to pull the motor to do that). I seriously hope these guys did not use a spray sealer on a new HKS MHG. Doesn't sound like this...

^^^ So did the rings that came with my Ross pistons. Think of it like this...once the material is removed, you can't put it back ;)

It would have been pretty easy to look in Adjusters Engine Internals/Mechanical section ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37895

I think tte's point is a machine shop has the equipment and know how to helicoil the stud holes. To get the head back from a machine shop with a crooked stud(s) is unsat.

You're welcome Bob ;) Syn oils will clean a lot of deposits out of your motor...let it go for a bit.

That's actually a tough question...the GC is hard to beat. But, with $$$ no object, I would use Red Line 5W-30. It is a 100% polyol ester base stock...the best there is. Aviation jet engine oil use an ester base. It performs better across all the lubrication regimes, resists shear and...

Heed the warning about getting brake fluid on paint...it will take it right off!

Switching to a conventional oil will do nothing to correct your problem...IMO, a true syn oil is best to run in a turbo motor. If it's a cost issue concerning the RP, go to Wal-Mart and get Pennzoil Platinum...it's a Group III hydrocracked oil that approaches the quality of a PAO (like RP) or...

That's an after market gasket...the new version Toyota OEM gaskets are a MLS type.

It's on the bottom of every bottle...some of the early 2005 codes are also the GC Green. The best way is to open one and pour a little into the cap...it's green alright ;) In any case, the GC Gold is very good...I'd buy it in a heart beat. Well...not exactly "equivalent". Here's the...

That is totally unsat! I just sent Suprarich 3 sets of cams in great shape...maybe he'll let you talk him out of a set :dunno:

LOL! That statement (not using a 20W-50 causes rod knock) is exactly what set me off on writing another novel on this subject. It's just sooo wrong for so many reasons. Just could not let that one pass...I guess it's my mission here to shoot that kind of total ignorance down. Yeah...I...

Here's the Spec sheet on Valvoline Synpower oil: http://www.valvoline.com/products/Synpower.pdf IMO it's on par with the Mobil 1 products. The biggest reason I like the Pennzoil Platinum is the add pack formulation...they have taken the technology up a notch for the Group III base stocks in...

Take a look at my response to Matt above...if you can find the GC, it's hard to beat that oil. The 2JZ-GE is a NA motor, so using a true syn oil is less of a factor. You don't have to deal with the heat from the turbo. If it's in good shape, the Pennzoil Platimum would be an excellent...

You're welcome Matt! Just a warning...if you hit a guy that advocates using a 20W-50 with the above info, the discussion will degrade to "well, I've always used it and in my experience its the best". Problem is, they can't tell you why...nothing to back up their reasoning other than "I've...

Matt - Well you just got to experience first hand why a lot of people think a thicker oil is best. I can assure you it is not...not using a 20W-50 has no impact on developing rod knock. This guy is basically talking out of his arse ;) People will point at the Supra manual oil chart and...

Tells you an awful lot about what's going on in your motor. On the $$$ side, it also tells you when your oil really needs to be changed vs. the 3,000 mile OCI that is pushed by the various shops. A true syn oil (like RP) can go 8,000 miles easy without doing analysis...if you do like SC does...

Forgot to say..."when the original album came out" ;) That still makes you an old fart too...LOL