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Yep - same thing happen to me 3 weeks ago. They replicated my card and were using it around Phoenix...charged stuff like fast food, gas, etc. Tried some really big purchases, but the name on the card they made didn't match. Visa called me too and canceled all of them ;)

That's a bit different than timing jumping around ;) It's likely the tensioner is bad or should have been adjusted before the belt jumped a tooth...it's in the TRSM. Since you're gonna replace the belt, get a Toyota or Greddy belt.

Dow - I've ceramic coated 4-5 HKS long runners...none were cracked. It's a beefy manifold.

The housing will never be able to flow the air the compressor wheel is capable of producing...it's going to choke it off. Plus, you will still have the stock compressor wheel...it's not going to be able to turn a compressor that size very efficiently.

If it was a prolong warm up or a temp spike within a few miles, then I'd be looking at the thermostat myself ;) From the info given, the temp difference is lower at freeway speed...higher in city driving. Any Supra after start just sitting there, will not even open the thremostat...the...

:3d_frown: You guys are not doing your motor any favors...just how well do you think the "thick as shit" oil is going to flow through your bearings? Not very well...running 20W-50 is a great way to increase wear, increase bearing heat, and delay oil flow up to your cams. Why do you think...

Highly doubt it's the thermostat ;) Based on the temps increasing at low car speed airflow over the radiator, betcha it's the fan clutch. Read this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1056

And vent fumes to the atmosphere or your engine bay. Just do it right and relocate the canister ;)

Get one from a JZA70 halfcut (it's half the size), mount it under the fender plastic undercover, and connect the same as stock ;)

Sounds like your fan clutch is toast. You should be able to hear it for 30-45 sec after start, then it should quiet down. The clutch for an NA and turbo are different BTW.

:3d_frown:

Aaron - PM JJ...I'll bet he would be able to tell ya how to set-up a valid test ;)

Dude - GM Synchromesh is a transmission oil...specifically for the GM TKO 500 & TKO 600 manual transmissions. It might be ok for the R154, but it IS NOT for an LSD. It does not have the friction modifiers required for the LSD to operate correctly. You need to get that out of the LSD...like now!

Well...if you think it's your differential...have you changed the LSD oil?

How about a shiny ceramic chrome one for $45? Got the two vac hard pipes for each side in ceramic chrome too ;)

By removing the relay and resistor this way, you are essentially doing the same thing as the 12 volt mod. The difference is you do clean up the engine bay a bit, but you still have the 15-20 year old wiring supplying power to the pump. The best way is to replace the stock wires w/ heavier...

Or you could do it the right way ;) #10 wire pos & gnd from battery to 30 amp Bosch relay to pump. I would run a dedicated ground for the pump. Use the stock wiring to switch the relay on (Red/Black iirc)...remove the stock resistor & relay all together. ECU will turn the pump on via...

Awww man! I'd have bought one and had the wife buy one! What a moron :3d_frown:

I am...German Castrol...0W-30, but it would actually be a bit thick at ops temp for your needs. Do your motor a favor and use the RP 5W-30...just do it ;)

K&N is a good filter...Champion Labs makes it, and the Mobil 1. The K&N doesn't have the syn media though. IMO, they are both too expensive for what you're getting. BTW - Champion also makes the SuperTech filters for Wal-Mart ;)