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I plan to ground all sensors at the EMS...cleaner signal that way.

It's in the TRSM ;) Do what I told you with the oil...hopefully your bearings didn't take a big hit.

Safely to fuel cut (~14 psi). Been quite a few guys on here running it higher than that. No fudge factor for even minor detonation though!

IJ - Not fair! Yours is lapped!

Yep...that's it ;)

An experienced helper would be a big plus man ;) Not saying you can't do it...it's just going to take you a lot more time. Need to allow for that. One other thing you want to check...there's a big banjo fitting at the rear of the head. These (and the fitting that secures it) are very...

I also meant to tell you...take the hood off ;) Getting the head in with the studs on the block is a real pain. A better way is to put the head on (no studs) and align it using the two index pins. Put the stud washers in each hole. Put the moly on the stud threads and carefully thread...

Don't have a pic, but if you can feel machine marks with your fingernail...it's not good enough.

Listen to these guys...good advice. You don't want to use a MHG unless the block is machined...that's why every MHG manufacturer has a required smoothness (RA spec) for the block/head. You might get away with it depending on the condition of your block, but if this is the 1st time you've done...

Ideal - you're correct...the one I've seen were not done properly. They: Completely ignored the Cometic RA spec...sorry man, but I just don't buy it. You can come up with all kinds of reasons why the Cometic blew...the real reason is the RA spec for the block was not met. Cometic puts out...

Ideal - I have to disagree. The Cometic 50 RA spec applies to both sealing surfaces...the head AND block. I have also seen several Cometics blow within a few weeks because of what you suggested doing...it's a shortcut I personally will not take. I'd use a stock HG before I did that ;) Do...

You are boring .5mm oversize...that means your MHG needs to be 83.5mm for the cylinder diameter. If you plan on using a Cometic (yes...it's a good choice), the RA is the same as a Titan...the block & head surface needs to be 50 RA. If you use a HKS or Greddy MHG, the RA is 30. Regardless...

If you got the cash, might as well have the head freshened up ;) 3 angle valve job, new seals, check guides and springs...have the head decked to the lowest RA the shop is capable of. 30 RA will cover any MHG out there.

Beautiful motor man!

NP man! Now that you own a nice platform for a build..."Open door, insert copious amounts of cash" Here's one more piece of the puzzle for ya...until you get your own TRSM ;) http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtips.aspx All the specs you will need.

LOL...the pdf I sent you came out of my AEM manual ;) The part # for the pre-'89 is 30-1110 and '89+ is 30-1130 I'm pretty sure the pin-outs are different since the AEM is a "plug & play"...however, the functions should be the same. The "C" connector (one that comes w/ the AEM) is identical.

Are you using the '87 wiring harness? What is the part # on your AEM Jake?

Nope...you gotta pull the motor. All you really need is a cherry picker...Harbor Freight has a folding 2 ton unit that's pretty reasonable. Of course, an engine stand makes life easier ;) The other alternative is to go with a stock Toyota composite HG...you can boost to fuel cut (~14 psi)...

Well, unless the head/block deck was machined to the RA spec required for the MHG...it's very possible it did not seal. See it all the time with guys trying to cut corners by not pulling the block and having it machined for a MHG. The NAPA block tester should tell you if exhaust gas is in the...

The Titan MHG is a Cometic...it requires a 50 RA on both the block and head deck. Roy is correct...if this spec is not met, there's a good chance the MHG will not seal. You DO NOT want to use a spray sealer on a NEW MHG. Greddy makes an excellent timing belt. Arvin - the cylinder size for...