Search results

Yeah, I did ;) ARP recently changed the torque spec for the studs...I don't have a copy of the new sheet. If these are older studs, 81 ft/lbs w/ moly is correct. If new, he needs to use the spec sheet that came with the studs.

They didn't come with a spec sheet like the one above for the bolts?

Ummm...that ARP spec sheet says 75 ft/lbs for aluminum heads ;)

Glad everything turned out good ;) What airline?

Well...what Ideal is getting at and what I was trying to avoid jumping on right away is a BHG...it has the attributes :3d_frown: Don't mean to bash your co-worker, but there's been too many insistences of people selling Mk III's knowing there is a likely BHG...why do you think it has a new...

Said it has a new rad...at least that's what the previous owner told him :rolleyes:

LOL!!! :runaway:

Yeah, but for $20 + Pressure test cost you know it's not the cooling system. A Napa Block test just might be on the agenda as well ;) Needs a thermostat anyway.

Simple things 1st ;) - Get a thermostat in there...Toyota or Stant SuperStat. - Check/change your rad cap - Get the air out of the system...fill the rad every time it goes through a heat cycle (heat up, cool down)...do it from the rad cap not the coolant bottle. Keep the coolant...

Yep...prior planning prevents piss poor performance! And anytime man!

The head deck to the valve cover surface...1.37mm is the thickness compressed. Here's what you do: - Measure the head thickness after it's machined again - Substract that thickness from 116mm - Add the result to 1.37mm - Add the amount of material removed from the block deck - You now...

The stock head thickness is 116mm from deck to valve cover sealing surface ;)

If that oil pump goes out, an oil pressure gauge is not going to save you ;) Plus, if it's an NA pump it will not provide the pressure required for a turbo motor...the gearing is different.

ACL Bearings :thumbdown Use Toyota, NDC, or Toga bearings...BTW - Clevite bearings are re-boxed NDC ;) That looks like an NA oil pump...don't want that in a turbo car. Take a look at this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=369 Personally, I'm going with a Toyota or...

If you installed Autolite 5503 plugs, they are the stock height.

Be advised the Autolite 3923 plugs are 1/8" shorter than stock length on the ceramic side. Some folks have experienced a light misfire at low rpm (I did) due to the plug wire boots not fully seating on the plug. It causes arcing.

Depends on how big the pieces are...you could be shaving aluminum off the inside of your compressor housing. I wouldn't count on the IC to stop it.

LOL...you're right MDC. I read CT-12a and brain processed CT-26.

Forgot you're using a FFIM...that location for the AIT should be ok. I mounted mine on the IC piping about 4" from the IC outlet...the charge air temp will change little (if any) in the time it takes to get to the manifold. I want to make sure the only heat the sensor "sees" is AIT! Not...

If you're sure it's your turbo...that means one (or both) of the wheels is hitting the housing. Need to get that fixed...unless you want metal pieces going into your motor :eek: