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From what I've read on the Bosch, it's intended as an in-line pump. But, it also says it can be installed in the tank with "custom fabrication". heavier wiring/relay is not a problem...just wondering what other "custom fabrication" might be required besides a hanger mod. I imagine you would...

IJ - I'd like to know about the Bosch 044 pump. Besides wiring & relay, any other issue getting it to fit in the tank (I may have misunderstood)? Or is this a straight in-line install?

Qwik - Heehee...we actually agree on 90% of things. We just like to haggle about the details ;) And sorry guys...wife says ya'll can't have me. Besides, you'd need some of these: :boobies: (And that ain't gonna happen...LOL)

In the meantime, take a look at these: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38956 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2337 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2053

Nope...my contribution was to show you have NFI of what you're talking about ;) And...congratulations! You've achieved what many others have before you :biglaugh: (Figured a pic would make it really easy for a guy like you to understand)

Yeah...they have a good selection. They do charge a bit on the high side for shipping though :icon_conf If you need it, they gotcha by the cajonies.

So your gonna go with a MHG? I had mine done at Frontier Machine shop long ago...thay did a good job, but are really too expensive. A friend of mine just had his done at a shop over in your neck of the woods....valve job and re-surface. I saw the head (helped install it)...it was very nice...

Like these: http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=25&cs=82&cm=19&cd=1317 Those do look nice too!

Awww...come on! It's a piece of history! A classic! A crock of BS :biglaugh:

Yeah...a 30mm length should work fine. The cap heads look really good though ;)

You have coolant lines from the bottom of the #2 intake runner (attaches to head) to the ISCV, to the TB, to the return line that goes around the block. Bet ya sprung a leak ;) Edit: JJ beat me ;)

Sorry man...couldn't resist :biglaugh: Mine broke off at the connector...I got another plug from tubbie and spliced it in. Worked like a charm.

That's true...forgot your ran those lines all the way to the rear! All the air needs to work itself out too...takes a few days. When I added the filter, it took an additional 3/4 quart too ;)

6x1mm 27mm long to be exact ;) I got stainless hex cap bolts from Ace Harware...used an inside star washer between cap and grommet. Torque is 22 in/lbs (not ft/lbs!)

Whoa! 200 LPH at 75 psi...the Walbro is 25-30 LPH at that pressure. That should flow plenty for any HP I can come up with on a 7M. How hard is the in tank install...heavier guage wire and an in hatch relay to handle the amps?

I filled the torque converter with almost 1.5 qts iirc. 5 more after it was installed...ran and added as required to cold level. Took more over the next few days when checked hot.

You're not getting it...you posted it was ok to remove in post #5 Nothing else about what it does or the downside of removing it. That is because you did not know...that is the bottom line here. You provided or implied something as fact when it was not true. Then, all this drivel...

You funny guy ;) Let me get this all straight from what you're saying. Hot Start Idle Up VSV - It's not a useful piece and can be removed with no impact, regardless of conditions - It does not matter it's part of the EFI system - Toyota put it there to solve an obscure, little seen...

Well Ideal...I see you're still sticking to your "experience". Well that's fine, even though you're wrong. Do as you will, but just because it happens to work for you doesn't mean it WILL work for other cars in other parts of the country. I don't have to "think" what happens, what the VSV/EGR...

Because it was not required...USDM ECU's are "tuned" to have the EGR. If you delete it, you "should" get a JDM ECU (at least here in the states). That still ignores the amount of NOx you will be contributing to the air quality ;)