Trust me ;)
You WANT a dual core radiator in Phoenix during the summer. Cut the jiggle valve off the thermostat for a small, constant flow through the radiator...don't run a stat less that 180 deg. Make sure your fan clutch is working properly. Check all your hoses in prep for the summer...
Nope...you can use the stock radiator cooler and save a chunk there. I always advocate running a filter on the tranny...you don't have to use the Trasko...stock size oil filters do fine.
You'll have to do the math yourself for the $$$.
Just unbolt the bell housing from the block, slide the tranny off, then unbolt the converter. Much easier that way. Remember the converter will have fluid in it ;)
LOL...I got very lucky on that one. 18 bottles of Green GC from the AZ on Grand Ave & Peoria ;)
That's the only AZ I hit over on your side of town...I bet ya can grab some from the other AZ's in the west valley. The Gold GC is very good too...don't pass it up. Just make sure it says "Made...
Australian standard? How many ant's dicks make up a mm?
And are those African, Asian, or N American ants?
Seen this one myself...especially in 110+ temps like Phoenix in the summer!
Are all your vac lines in good shape and connected the where they are suppose to be?
You mentioned one that was not hooked up...which one?
Have you removed any "unnecessary" parts to cleaning up the engine bay?
Think it would transfer that much heat to the fuel? At that rate, it would be flowing through the rail pretty fast...it would take a while to heat up.
A return cooler would be a good idea though ;)
Ian - makes sense. It did "look" like a good idea...LOL
The fuel re-circulating should not be a problem until you get down to 5 gal or so...that would be kinda limiting.
Nice!
Get the turbine housing ceramic coated before you put it in...really helps w/ radiated heat to the bay. I believe you have a coater in your neck of the woods too...ask for a 2000 deg rated coating.
BTW - Ever go to the Foggy Dew?
If you are planning to use that Kit for the tranny, you do not need the filter adapter....the piece that screws on the block or filter head on the motor.
Is he planning to use the stock auto tranny cooler in the radiator or change over to an air cooled type?
This is actually very simple...
An OEM HG will hold boost easily to fuel cut....with an upgraded CT26, that is all you really need and it will not require a block deck re-surface. Assuming the block deck is flat of course. I would use ARP hardware (studs preferred) torqued to ARP spec (80 ft/lbs w/ moly) regardless of the HG...
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