Yeah...I like Tampa a lot myself. Pretty good beaches over on the west coast too (not as nice as the Panhandle though).
Don't know where you went in Tampa Ric, but it must have been the the most low life areas you could find ;)
LOL...ummm, not quite. Some friction modifier is required...that is unless your clutches are worn so much they slip constantly. If that's the case, you need a re-build...badly.
Friction modifier is there to provide slip when the LSD is in a turn...no friction modifier and you risk locking...
Just because your check engine light is not on does not mean you don't have any codes stored. Check your codes:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=23
Kinda partial to the Viper myself ;)
Nice pics BTW...I really like the P-51 in formation with the A-10 and F-4
They put on a good show, but where it counts, the F-22 will clear the Su-37 and Mig-29 from the sky like the vermin they are.
Not even a contest vs the Raptor. ;)
Read this:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44485
Best advice? Take it easy on the W58 until you can get it fixed or swap to a R154 like the good Dr said.
GL-4 and GL-5 are the API specifications for gear oil:
- API GL-1, GL-2, and GL-6 are inactive.
- API Category GL-4 designates the type of service characteristic of spiral-bevel and hypoid gears in automotive axles operated under moderate speeds and loads. These oils may be used in selected...
Interesting...my '89 TRSM shows 75W-90 or 80W-90 for both manual trannys :icon_conf
In any case, the point is Synchomax is much too thin for either tranny. Max-Gear will work, but the friction modifiers can cause problems with the syncros on a tight tranny. IMO, the improvements guys see...
This is what I don't like about RP gear oils. The Max Gear can be used in a manual tranny (you can get the correct viscosity), but it contains friction modifiers...what you are experiencing is the friction modifiers in RP Max Gear freeing up gunked up synchros. This gear oil is too slippery for...
That is low...could be for any of the reasons above.
Unless you jumped a tooth...if it was re-built, did you re-tension the timing belt after 500 miles or so? Check your timing.
And fix the code 51.
Do this ^^^
And a pressure test.
Drilling the hole is on the thermostat itself, not the housing. You cut the jiggle valve off and can drill the hole a bit bigger (1/8" or 3mm) if you wish. Make sure the hole is at the top when installed. This allows a constant, small amount of coolant...
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