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The only times a heavier oil may be better for the bearings is: 1) you have a lot of miles on the motor and you have bearing wear 2) You have built the motor to handle the heavier oil. You intentionally have bearing clearances on the high side of spec to prevent wiping at high rpm and...

Stant SuperStat...cut the jiggle valve off for a bit of constant flow.

Talk to the mechanic and see if he used moly or motor oil for lube and if he remembers what torque. That's what you use for your re-torque (assuming he used ARP spec). BTW - Might want to consider hooking up the BVSV to the Charcoal Can and route the vac lines to the TB as stock. Not a big...

NP ;) Consider a re-torque on your head bolts...it's time to do that. Did you use stock or ARP?

Well...what's done is done. Hopefully your rings will finish seating...they should, but may take a bit longer. You will get that bit of blue smoke until they do. Keep tabs on your oil level...check weekly at min. I would run 1 qt over the full mark on the dip stick. For your running rich...

LOL...I'm not going to kill ya, just slap ya around a little bit ;) (j/k) The 2 vac lines on top of the TB are for the BVSV and the EGR VSV...should not make you run rich. How did you break in? Did you use the "get on it hard" in the 1st 20 miles or "take it easy" technique? I would...

Ok...a little bit of oil smoke is normal until the rings fully seat. You could be getting a little oil from the turbo seal as you said too, if it was not re-built. What oil did you break in with and when did you change it? Again...what hoses?

What hoses? How many miles on the re-build? Keep in mind the 7M tends to run a touch rich, especially under boost. You need a wideband AFR to really see what the motor is doing.

No, but I would check the fuel pressure per the TRSM. Also, make sure all your vac lines are routed correctly. Did you remove anything to clean up the bay?

Do you have an AFPR? What's your fuel pressure?

Jake - if that's the case, I'd go with this ^^^ The ceramic on the downpipe will help radiated heat down in the engine bay...the pipe is still going to get hella hot though. The best is a ceramic coat with the wrap...very effective. I would get a heat resistant tubing for your speedo...

You can drive a car in it ;) That price is for piping...depends on what it is for other parts. It's a 2000 deg rated coating. Sorry Jake - not trying to jack your thread, but if you do have your exhaust ceramic coated, it will not rust regardless of the type of steel...at least so long as...

Maybe where you live...I do it for $25 a foot for piping up to 3" dia and that includes the inside as well. The outside is coated and polished ;)

Yep...no rust...ever ;)

Kept this thread for future reference...Cleaned it up for brevity ;) After running through the Nashman translator ;)

Check the timing belt tensioner after about 500 miles or so as well.

I know you're not IJ ;) Here's some pics: Wix full flow filters will catch particles down to the 20 micron range, and even then at 97% efficiency. The Canton full flow filter is an exception ;) This leaves particles smaller than that in your oil, with the ones between...

Ian - that is a true statement. The Trasko just happens to be that effective due to the filter element it uses ;) Another big benefit is it also absorbs water...any condensation the PCV system misses from combustion will be removed. There is very little restriction with the Trasko in place on...

Ian - JAV was looking at using a Trasko by-pass filter in combo with a Wix full flow. The Wix will have all the oil flow through it...the Trasko will siphon off about 10% and filter down to the 1 micron range. The Trasko will have very little effect on the overall flow and cause near zero...

This thermostat: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm Yes, it's more expensive, but it is also something you never want to fail ;) Plus, it has 4 AN fittings included (at $6 each) as part of it...no way it can leak. This hose and hose ends...