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You realize the block and head will need to be decked for a MHG, right?

Did you actually check the valve clearances?

IJ - You've....changed ;)

Ahhh...understand ;)

Ok...highly suggest you check the HG bolt torque. The shop likely used the stock 58 ft/lbs of torque. You want 72-75 ft/lbs (assuming stock head bolts)...increase the torque using this sequence (3rd pic down): http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=55 You...

The only thing that concerns me is the coolant smell. Was the HG stock and what torque was used? Has a re-torque been done?

That should do it ;)

In your climate, likely the stock 190 deg will be best. It's a 52mm stat. Cutting off the jiggle valve allows a small bit of flow at all times through the stat and helps rid the system of air. Also stops pressure from building behind the stat and holding it shut. You might even want to drill...

Your friend just might be right. Get a Stant SuperStat...cut the jiggle valve off it before you install. Make sure you get a new gasket for it too.

Radiator and fan in good shape?

You want the coolant to be between 176 and 210 deg F. Below 176 deg, you are in warm-up enrichment...you will run rich. Above ~210 deg, the ECU retards timing to help prevent detonation.

I like the Mocal because it's a very good stat and you don't have to buy the NPT-AN fittings. The cost for 4 fittings is $24 ;)

You really *should* blur the tag number out in post #22. That is unless you want the whole planet (including thieves) to know where your Supra is ;)

Replace your speedo cable...the #1 speed sensor needs it to function. It's also likely the reason your speedo stopped working too ;) The tranny uses the speed sensor to determine shift points...there is also the #2 speed sensor on the tranny. When you replace the cable, make sure it is...

It doesn't take that long to heat up on a *stock* system...the oil does not flow through the cooler until it hits 35-40 psi. On a full flow cooler system, it's the thermostat that get the oil up to ops temp quickly as possible...better than the method the stock system uses. You always have...

Not taken that way...it's a common belief that a lower temp stat or no stat helps keep the motor cool. It's just that it causes more mischief than it's worth ;) I'm a big fan of a dual core in a hot climate...make sure your fan clutch is working well too. A stock Koyo will basically be...

If you are running a stock ECU, the stat is important...not only does it get the coolant up to temp faster, it requlates flow to the radiator. The only difference between a cold/hot climate is the amount of time it takes to get to ops temp. I live in Phoenix...promise you it's hotter than PR...

:gotrice: :puke:

Geezer - excessive/uneven wear on cylinder walls is primarily caused by using hard rings or lack of lubrication. The 7m block is very hard, it would have to get pretty hot to see cylinder distortation contributing to uneven wear. The thermostat may or may not be the cause though. One more...