The bolt looked kinda big to be the oil line, but what the heck.
What JDub really meant to say was Aux Fan Switch on the bottom of the thermostat housing and not BVSV. Sorry man, had a senior moment here ;)
Take a look at the oil section for my opinions on what to run.
yep, that's...
Yep...I got a set of NEW Crower rods on eBay for half price. Same for a NEW AEM EMS with all the sensors. And again for a set of NEW RC injectors...still got them flow tested though...all were less than 1% difference in flow.
eBay is not the problem...it the person who misrepresents the...
Most syn oils will handle those temps easily short term...especially an ester based oil like Red Line. However, you want the oil as close to 100 deg C as possible...this is the "right" temp for the oil and yields the viscosity (10-11 cst) the bearings were designed to operate at. Running any...
^^^ Yep!
At higher rpm (especially with a shimmed pump relief valve), the psi produced (40 psi +) is more than adequate for the bearings...the squirters have little impact. It's at low rpm/psi that can be the problem...if the squirters open up too soon, it will drop pressure/flow to the...
Ok...I'm a little confused (of course that's easily done) ;)
Correct me if I'm wrong...you have in the car now:
- '88 harness, ECU, ETC and Auto Tranny
You want to install:
- '89 motor w/ sensors and an '89 manual harness
Is this correct...be specific.
The squirters are basically a "controlled leak"...they will rob psi/flow from the bearings if they open up at too low a psi. You really don't need them until higher rpm to help keep the pistons cool.
I see what you mean...plus the pic shows a hose with a fitting attached :icon_conf
This hose is really easy...cut to length, push on the fitting, screw on. That's it!
1st pic - Connector for the BVSV on the thermostat housing.
2nd pic - Looks like the bolt for the banjo fitting for the turbo coolant return line on the back of the water pump housing.
If you order from Baker, it's by the foot for hose. Just measure what you need and add a little length for those bends you forgot. Cut to length when doing the install with a razor knife. ;)
You gotta buy the fittings, scroll down below the hose...the barbed end is for the hose itself, the...
It will, but I would clamp it...if you take a close look at the fittings for this hose, the barbs are more pronounced. The hose at Jegs is basically a copy of the Aeroquip stuff.
Yep...Baker Precision is great and prices aren't too bad either. They have a lot of metric fittings too, but...
LOL...I remember those days ;)
Yeah, your inner ear "lies to you"...doesn't match up with what your eyes are seeing. You gotta believe what your instruments/eyes are telling ya.
Using the brakes is an acquired skill...to keep straight, smooth/constant pressure on both. As you've seen, you...
This is also a good option for hose that's cheaper than stainless.
http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp1.htm
You will still have to use AN-NPT fittings on the cooler, etc.
You're on the right track ;)
Plumb it like this...filter adapter like this one (you need it in 3/4-16)on the block using a 7M-GE filter stud:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D114&N=700+400006+314600+115&autoview=sku
- "Out" port from above adapter to...
The Toyota OEM stat operates at 190 deg. The only downside for a 180 deg stat is the time it will take to get above the 176 deg the ECU is expecting for a warm motor...it will take longer. During the summer (or in a climate like in Phoenix), this is minor...I use a 180 deg stat because getting...
The GC you are referring to is on the "thick side" for a 0W-30...it's pretty close to a 40W at ops temp. For you guys that live up north, it's a perfect choice. Flows very well cold and gives bearings the viscosity to keep them running smoothly...especially if your bearing are showing wear...
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