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You can get a new TPS from Jay Marks (Champion) Toyota in Houston for $75 ;)

That is excellent pressure...is that with RP or did you switch?

Well, there's no way it can prevent varnish/sludge...these are usually caused by a bad PCV system and a hot motor. Reducing emissions is another claim that's out in la-la land...notice they did not name any of the "independent laboratories" used to support their claims, a dead give away. And...

I did get an AN-3 to 12x1.25 at Baker for the block ;) How about using a stock CT oil hard line to clear the manifold and welding a -10 male bung to it to complete the connection to the turbo?

That would be about it for the CSI switch...it only works during start.

Might want to check your FPR to see if it's holding pressure. Also, check for voltage drop across the fuel pump relay...if the spring inside is weak, it won't hold a good contact. The TPS can get a flat spot in it around the 3000 rpm range that will cause some mischief too ;)

John - Give these guys a call http://www.bakerprecision.com/ They have oddball metric to AN fittings....worth a shot. Does your turbo require AN-4? I'm using AN-3 and it supplies plenty without flooding the turbo seals.

Keep in mind a code 24 can be caused by a bad AFM electronics module OR the wiring circuit. Look in the TRSM EFI section on how to test the AFM module. Trace the wires from the AFM...they run acroos the top of the motor behind the cam gear backing plate. This is a pretty hot area...the wire...

I guess it's a matter of perspective...wonder how many full blown race motors are on this forum :rolleyes:

You can eliminate the knock sensors, but why? You can program the AEM to actually make them more responsive/useful. The AEM still needs an O2...narrow or wideband...either will work. You also need some method to fine tune idle...stepper ISCV or other type.

'94 Toyota truck here...R22E motor gets 28 mpg...2WD. The 4WD version would easily handle snow. Good for hauling your 7M block to the machinist ;)

Full 3 book set for an '89 + EWD + 2 TCCS manuals ;)

TOMA70E - You're wrong...these braces are torsonional stiffeners like IJ said and for the reasons Shaeff posted. Sorry, but your experience does not trump the reason the Toyota engineers put these on the motor. Run without them if you like, but if you post it's ok to do so, expect the same...

This is almost impossible to read...try making paragraphs ;)

^^^ Cold oil...Yep! Verify your lines to the remote head are routed correctly. Center fitting (out) on the adapter on the stock filter head to the outside fitting (in) on the remote head. Center fitting (out) on the remote filter head to the outside fitting (in) on the stock filter head...

Is there a thermostat installed?

Did you check your ECU codes?

Aren't you the guy that wants to run 2 ECU temp sensors switched so you can fool the ECU into staying in warm-up enrichment? And how do you know what supporting mods he has? You don't, but you tell him to do back the AFM screw out and not tell him the effect it has on mixture. Code 52...

Just a suggestion...turn down the boost...before you kill the motor. You really need to learn more about this car before you start adjusting things (like the AFM screw) without having a clue as to what it will do. You need to fix the codes like Aaron told you...the rest of this thread is...

Looks like a nitrile anti-drain back valve from the filter ;) Specifically a Fram or one of the other filters Fram makes under different names. Got pics in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763