Search results

Did you check the 20A Dome fuse in the engine bay fuse box?

Yep! An temp gauge will tell you if the oil is staying at ops temp like it's suppose to. Heat has a pretty big impact on viscosity...you want the oil to stay right around 200 deg F. Also consider doing the remote filter at the same time...it's not going to cost that much more and you'll...

I prefer old and lazy :biglaugh: And to be honest, I missed you had it on a stand...I would have done what you did and install it bare, then bolt all the other parts on ;)

I agree ;) Save your $$$ and do it right. The PermaCool oil coolers are not that good...especially in a location where rocks/debris can hit the cooler. The fins are going to take a hit (bend) and the cooler is not that efficient. A better, more efficient (but a little more expensive)...

~300 HP on stock cams...~317 HP on the 2J cams. The good thing about the HP is the curve flattens out above 300 HP across 5500 rpm to redline. As usual on a 1J...very little torque gain ;)

Torque to ARP stud spec...80 ft/lbs. ;)

The diag block is filled with di-electric grease...sure there's not just a layer of dirt on top? You need this block to be functional if you want to figure out what's wrong with the motor (what JAV said) ;)

:slap: :slap: ;)

Check your CPS wiring...shut it down and wiggle the connector wires. Also take a look at the CPS wiring that goes across the top front of the motor. Do you have any codes? Is your timing set at 10 deg BDTC with the diag block jumpered?

Yes it needs to be cold...the aluminum head and steel block expand at different rates when hot. For an accurate/even clamping force on the HG, it's best if the motor is cold.

It's easier to install the exhaust manifold and lower intake manifold on the head with it out of the car, but it's a lot heavier. If you have a cherry picker, this is not a problem. Also attach the coolant lines to the block return line at the rear and to the lower intake fitting. Def...

:slap: ;)

JAV is correct...80 ft/lbs is the spec for ARP studs using moly. The MHG will seal fine at that torque, even used. Make sure you clean ALL the old Viton sealer...paint thinner or Acetone works well. Once clean, apply a coat of copper sealer to the MHG and let dry for 10 min or so...you only...

I like it...plan on using one to add an oil cooler to my Toyota Pickup for the exact reason you said ;)

You're welcome ;) You want the 180 deg one...oil ops temp viscosity is based on 210 deg F. The 180 deg stat will get the oil flowing through the cooler just prior to that temp and get "ahead of the game" so to speak.

Yes you do need a thermostat...you want the oil to get to operating temp as quickly as possible to improve flow throughout the system. Personally, I would use this thermostat: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm The PermaCool stats are cheaply made...their filter/block adapters are...

^^^ This is correct. Look in the thermostat and you will see the valve...it will be partially open allowing a 10% flow to the cooler at all times. This is the side you connect to the "out" from the filter head...it should be E1 with C1 on the opposite side of the same hole. I assume you're...

Yes...it can be powder coated. I've chrome ceramic coated several...a more durable option IMO.

Yep...that's top-of-the-line ;) You probably have close to a couple hundred just in AN fittings there...Nicely done Gilsdorf.

I personally like the stack plate design better...B&M, Long TruCool, Derale. More sturdy construction and more efficient.