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Ahhh...working in parallel vs series. A little complex on the piping side, but should increase flow.

Chill out dude...I said they flow well for what they are (size core and inlet/outlet dia). Of course a Spearco is going to flow better...larger core and larger inlet/outlet. I'm not giving out false info...I was addressing the cooling efficiency of dual stock IC's and how 2 of them will not...

Had this discussion before...that oil chart in the manual is 15-20 years old. And it's not the spec for your temp...it's one of the options available...as is a 10W-30. The manual shows API grades SF, SF/CC, and SG...all are obsolete API grades...you cannot even buy these oils anymore. Nice...

The stock IC's flow well for what they are. Two of them will not improve flow...this is where the piping is the factor like S383 said. Two would improve air charge cooling efficiency, but not by a factor of 2...you would hit diminishing returns pretty quick.

Now this is a piece of work...especially for a device that does absolutely nothing ;) http://www.chilloutzone.de/files/player.swf?b=10&l=197&u=ILLUMllSOOAvIF//P_LxP92A42lCHCeeWCejXnHAS/c

Did you happen to remove/re-install the ground wires that attach to the intake manifold?

A disconnected knock sensor wire will cause a code 52, but not a code 11. A code 11 is a momentary interruption in power to the ECU.

There's a reason your oil pressure is high when the motor is cold...it's called resistance to flow. Running a heavy weight oil on a tight tolerance motor is not a good idea. Suggest you read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775

Yeah...just used the more more common name I've seen around here. Line pressure cable is the correct term. Nice pulley IJ ;)

And so what if they do torque higher? Anyone that exceeds the specs listed on the sheet is over torquing the studs/bolts...period. Again, something ARP specifically warns against doing...sorry, but I'll trust the guys that make the studs/bolts over hearsay (or your opinion) anytime.

He's talking about the "kick down" cable...it increases line pressure based on throttle plate position.

Yeah...I believe in running the cheapest, lowest quality oil I can find. I want to make sure the turbo cokes, and the motor sludges up as quickly as possible. Jeez...I can't believe you even asked me that question ;)

Give Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 a try ;) Use a Wix, NAPA Gold, or PureOne filter.

Yes...speed should drop to 2000 rpm with the line pinched. This is checking the Dashpot speed. Step 4 on the next page says rpm should drop to idle when you release the pinch. On EC-11, you check the VTV...if air does not flow from the black to white side freely, it's the same as if you pinch...

If it's clogged? No. The filter is there to prevent that. I would test per the TRSM link above (Pg EC-11).

That 1st pic is the VTV for the dashpot diaphram...the filter is broken off. Take a look at this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&Page=8 PM Tubbie...he should be able to fix you up on a BVSV, a CSTS, and connector for it.

LOL! :runaway:

Not very familiar with the NA, but on the Turbo TB it's opposite the fitting where the PCV hose connects. Not all TB's have one....just the early models. You want to use carb cleaner to check for leaks.

Air leakage around the CSI gasket where it mounts to the manifold. The CSI can also get crap in it holding it partially open (it's closed when start is complete or power is removed)...this usually results in a rough idle and/or a rich condition. Neither of these is likely in your case. What...

You can't set your timing until idle is in spec. Do you have any codes? Check again for any pirate air leaks...the cold start injector, vac hoses, throttle body is closed, and the ISCV is going to full open at engine shut down. If the throttle body has an adjustment screw, it should be full...