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Really? And where does it say that it ok to torque to whatever you want? You're either pulling that comment out of your arse, or you need to work on reading comprehension. The spec sheet is very specific: Very specific torque values follow this statement...if the box says the values are...

The old spec was 81 ft/lbs w/ moly...105 ft/lbs w/ 30W motor oil. Actually quite a bit higher using oil. ARP changed the steel used in the studs.

LOL...just so long you learn something ;) Yeah, you have to read the sheets closely. For the bolt, torque is limited to 75 ft/lbs (moly for lube) due their use on a 7M aluminum head. Studs are different...this is the latest sheet: Note the torque is 80 ft/lbs w/ moly or 120 ft/lbs...

;) Can't help being blunt...it's my nature. Hope you learned something.

You can do whatever you want, but to say or to come across as "this is the spec" is wrong....the spec sheet is there for a reason. It is based on 75% of the yield strength of the bolt to provide a buffer against failure. Exceed the torque and you get closer to the design limit of the...

Ummm...no. There's a sheet that comes with the bolts/studs...that is the torque you use. You guys need to stop guessing or using "I heard" specs for this kind of stuff. Reading the install/spec sheets for the equipment you use is pretty simple ;)

Uhhh...how about using the ARP torque spec like you're suppose to.

The volt gauge should work fine.

I have both. Like JJ said, the bar type is good when you have to torque and hold. Most of the time though, I use the clicker.

Yep...you will also need the Ford friction modifier.

Go 1500 miles. You can use a 10W-30 non-syn oil.

You can do that too ;) Get your code 11 fixed 1st thing! This popped up after you disconnected your knock wires from the intake manifold correct?

The Lex/550 combo is cheaper and will raise fuel cut to 14-16 psi. Long term, the MAFT Pro is a better, more flexible option...it can also control boost, enable speed density (eliminate the AFM) and control fuel iirc. But it's more expensive and more complex. Next get an AFPR w/ gauge and...

The thing is, what you are telling him is just flat wrong. There are multiple examples of that from your previous posts. You have no idea how the EFI system on this car works. It's not a matter of opinion...it's a fact.

You need to resolve the code 11...my books are at home, the online TRSM doesn't even show that code. JJ knows what he's talking about though...other codes will not display until that one is fixed. The grounds are a good place to start...they are on the intake manifold. Get it fixed and check...

Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38753 Search is your friend ;)

That is not even close to being correct :3d_frown: You've demonstrated again you have NFI what you're talking about. Code 11??? Are you sure? I don't see a code 11 in the TRSM. ;) Or are you getting a fast, constant interval blink? Suggest you check your base timing...there is a...

Light weight Shockproof has the internal fluid friction of a 30W oil. If the gearbox spec's a 30W, it should be ok to use.

You're not bugging me ;) If you want to run a 40W, that would be a good choice. It's a little thicker in both cold and hot viscosity than the German Castrol, but not by a big amount. The GC falls almost dead middle (hot viscosity wise) between the ATM 10W-30 and the AFL 5W-40. The AFL is...

Doesn't look like the dipstick's an option either ;)