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LOL...it works really well too ;) The trick is to adjust the needle valve to the point where it just "studders" at idle, then close a 1/4 turn or so. This will give you the water flow you need.

The only decent fuel additives are those containing polyether amine...Chevron Techron (Concentrate), GumOut Regane, and Red Line SI-I all contain about 40% PEA. I run a bottle through the tank every 5000 miles or so. If you want to clean your combustion chambers, good ole H2O works...

Congratulations Tanya! Nice looking Mk II you have there ;)

It should look like this: Make sure the crank dampner is pointing at "zero" and both cam gears are aligned to the top index marks on the back plate.

Running a good ground to the ignitor is not a bad idea either ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217

Ok...one more time. Did you drop the pan and replace the filter? Did you flush out the old ATF per the last post in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3179

Just a clarification on this...before you do this, you should drain/drop the tranny pan and replace the filter. Check the magnets at the bottom of the pan for metal. Refer to the TSRM for details. You will need Toyota FIPG to reseal the tranny pan...I have also used Permatex "The Right Stuff"...

The real question is, was the reach around good for you Jay? j/k :biglaugh:

EAo filters are excellent...my only problem with Amsoil is their pricing and marketing technique to keep that pricing at the level it is. If you plan on using Amsoil oil, my recommendation would be their Signature Series 0W-30 (SSO).

Installed a coolant filter on my Cressida...used a marine fuel/water separator filter head (11/16x16 filter thread), 3/8" Aeroquip socketless hose, and 3/8" NPT barbed fittings. Tapped into the ISCV/TB coolant line in the last leg to the block hard line return and used 3/8" barb to barb splices...

That's the point...1 oz is not a heck of a lot in the big scheme of things. Not going to hurt a thing staying in till the next change.

Without a doubt.

Wow...what a cheap looking POS :3d_frown: J/K :icon_razz That looks really good!

My bet is on the reach around ;)

LOL...so to speak ;) For the measurement of "twist" as read from the wrench, it is...80 ft/lbs will read for bolts or studs. For the measurement of pressure applied between the head and block decks (with the HG in between), it depends on the hardware used and the friction coefficient for...

Jeez man - I'm not talking about a perfect day...just a dry one ;) The car still weighs 3500 lbs and the brakes are a very important part of stopping this beast. It's something I do not leave to chance...especially with my pink arse inside :eek3:

Yep...saw it at PepBoys here in AZ as well ;) Choice is a good thing!

Gaboon - Did you skip physics? The brakes will get wet...lets look at how close to the ground they are and the typical (low) speed one would drive through standing water. Do what you want dude, but the OP ask for an answer and I pretty well stated mine.

Hmmm...a 3500 lb high HP car. Thanks, but I'll stick to my guns. I'm not going to run a new set of pads and a fresh rotors for the 1st time in the rain...not going to happen on my car ;)

So, running through a puddle of water will not suddenly cool the pads, leading to a hard surface forming from the resins IJ mentioned?