Just cut it off the thermostat with a pair of snips...it's that simple.
A bad rad cap will push coolant out as stated...since the rubber is bad on yours, it may fix it.
Otherwise, you really need to get a NAPA block tester to see if you have exhaust gas in the coolant.
I believe that is incorrect...here is what a coating site has to say about curing VHT:
http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/vhtflco.html
The highest curing temp is 600 deg F...that is above the max temp most home ovens can attain.
There is a curing option for on the car that is a bit more...
Shop peening is primarily to increase fatigue life. It works through a mechanical plastic deformation of the metal surface...think of each shot as a tiny hammer. It's very important that the correct size and hardness shot is used at the correct velocity for the specific part to induce the...
LOL...I did myself a favor and purchased Pauter rods ;)
Like I said, the stock rods are good, but the alloys used are for conventional automotive mass produced rods to keeps cost down. If the rods have internal stress fractures or voids from impurities, magnaflux will not show it. If you're...
I don't know what he was using, but the ceramics I have experience with do not require a "primer". In fact, that would interfere with the bond to the metal surface.
BTW - you never want to ceramic coat the exterior of a head or an engine block. The heat retention would be a very bad thing ;)
I know IJ trashed a motor because of lateral G uncovering the pan pick-up.
Besides...it's free no risk insurance. There is no downside to running oil a quart high in a 7M. ;)
You have to have a competent tech applying ceramic...the metal has to be absolutely clean. ANY oil, grease, etc will cause it not to bond. The curing temp/time is also very important. I have yet to have a part returned due to the coating losing adhesion or it's thermal properties. Sorry that...
There's a huge difference...ceramic is cured at 500 deg for starters. The carrier matrix bonds with the metal it's applied to...even using a bead blaster it is difficult to remove once cured. In addition, metal's are part of the formula...the ceramic I use is a mil spec product originally used...
Question of the day...do you want it to look good or actually provide a benefit. Like cutting radiated heat to the engine bay.
That sir, is a true statement ;)
Also true concerning VHT...there's a very good reason to spec a 2000 deg coating beside problems with adhesion for the 1500...
And Mike Malloy threw a stock rod at ~540 HP...doing 70 mph on the interstate.
My 7M passed away today
The stock rods are good, but only as good as the weakest link. The problem is you don't know which of the six it is ;)
The guy you know is lucky.
The Trasko is a bypass filter...the blue fitting is rather ingenious valve that only allows a small amount of oil through the filter compared to a conventional full flow. That oil is forced under pressure through the filter element...basically a cut down, tightly wound roll of TP. The Trasko...
The nice thing about this method is it takes into account modifications to the oil system...volume increases due to a remote filter, bigger cooler, etc.
My car takes 7 1/2 quarts doing it this way.
Yes he has...JJ is one of the few people I believe what he's saying about oil without reservation. He's the guy that got me looking into all this to begin with ;)
My IPT built A340E performs best with ATF temps at the lower ends of that range...180 deg F. Up shift into overdrive and converter lock-up (< 37 MPH) is inhibited when coolant temps are under 140 deg F.
Vehicle load is what produces heat for an auto tranny...my cooler is a Long's TruCool...
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