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Did a little research on this: Purolator is going to this coating for all of the PureOne line of filters. It seems it's a quality control issue, especially on the initial run. The flakes you saw are primarily on the outside (yes, a couple geeks cut them open), but some did get through the...

Ahhh, that's true about a rich mixture and NOx...it reduces the compustion temps ;) A high HC would indicate unburned fuel...since his CO looks good, a rich misfire would not be the cause. Perhaps an ignition related misfire for the earlier post? Post the new numbers per JJ's suggestion.

NOx points straight at the EGR. HC is likely due to a rich condition.

Grip on the outside is no big deal...just wipe the rubber gasket/end off and you are good. Inside, different story...the only way to determine that is by cutting a new filter open. Basically this is a standard PureOne filter with a coating on the outside for grip.

That will be a crap shoot. The chips will cause the compressor blades to be out of balance...at the rpm the turbo spins at, it would not surprise me if it grenades.

Nah...most of what I post is pure BS ;) You see all kinds of claims by various products (additives) out there...95% is pure BS. That was kinda the whole point of what I said...good ole H2O works as well or better than just about anything else (for cleaning the combustion chamber), short...

This thread really should have had a poll to be an effective measure of opinion. It's run it's course. Thread closed.

Did you cut one open to see if this was in fact true? I can see some of the "grit" getting on the rubber gasket, but if it's on the filter element, this filter would be on my "do not use" list.

Pete - Go to Ace or TrueValue hardware ;)

If a M12x1.25 bolt will fit through the tabs, it will work. Put washers under the tabs to protect the deck. You will need 4 M12x1.25 the right length to fully seat the tabs against the washers. Like I said, don't use head bolts...they are way too long and can put a lateral stress on the bolt...

The way I would do it is use two short lengths of chain across the front/rear corners secured with M12x1.25 bolts. Go to the hardware store and get some about 3/4" longer than the threads on a head bolt and a couple washers each. Bolt the chain in this sequence: washers, through chain, bolts...

<Golf Clap> :bigthumb: Well said!

Would you like to take a wild guess what one of the primary byproducts of an internal combustion engine is? ;) A small amount of water is not a death sentence for the rings or the bearings...that is exactly what the PCV system is designed to take care of. If enough water gets past the rings...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_hose.aspx

It's actually the Heater Control Valve (HCV) ;)

Wouldn't hurt to have the coolant system pressure tested. This is also one reason I cut the jiggle valve off the thermostat...air has no problem getting out to the radiator and vented to the coolant bottle ;)

You need to get the line off the manifold runner in any case ;)

Motor out of the car? If so, another option would be to weld a -10 fitting to the pan.

::w00t:: (Hope the instructions helped)

If the motor is calling for a 20W multigrade, you should stick with that. GC 0W-30 is much thicker and will not give you the desired results. You can use a 0W or 5W-20 oil...Pennzoil Platinum is an excellent choice. The difference between a Grp III and Grp IV oil is it's feedstock. Grp III...