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Care to explain how I "bashed" you? Sure seems you get butt hurt pretty darn easily...do what you want...you can drive you car off a cliff for all that I care. What I said is the truth. You need to remember something...I am the SME for oil on SM. If I see someone that chooses to ignore...

Keep something in mind about GC...it is not a thin oil at 100 deg C. It's viscosity is 12.2 cst at ops temp, ~ 20% thicker than most 0W or 5W-30 multigrades. Plus, the specs for the older motors do not consider the modern oils. It will work great in a 5M...I run it in my 5M Cressida ;)

Ask yourself a question...if you don't flow test the injectors, do you have the time/money to rebuild the bottom end if one causes a cylinder to go lean and detonate or melt a piston? Your choice...I know what I would do ;)

Crower in current motor...going with Pauter's on the one I'm building now.

It's funny how you guys will "cherry pick" a single post to support the BS you do to these cars. Read the rest of the thread...for example: Enos 0W-50 is not "really thin"...it's 75% thicker than Red Line 5W-30 "cold" (at 40 deg C). Since this "cold" value is 104 deg F, imagine how...

There is no debate about this...for the PCV to work correctly, it needs the vac the intake manifold produces. That is why it came from the factory that way. Fix it and revise the 1st post...I'll delete the rest of the comments when you do.

There's been other testing besides Myth Busters...acetone does not help with mileage. It's another myth. Now that gas is so expensive vs what we were used to in the US, you are going to see a lot of different products pushed the "improve mileage". Consumer beware...if it sounds too good to...

You should be able to clean the rail in a parts cleaner. (How in the world did you get mud in it?) The injectors need to be cleaned by a shop that has the proper equipment...it has to be done under pressure. Soaking them will not do it. I suggest you get them flow tested after cleaning to...

:3d_frown: You don't take instruction well, do you?

^^ X2

Like a killer bee looking for a queen ;) j/k

To clean the ISCV you have to take it apart. Three screws hold it to the base, remove them and the motor will come off. Be careful there's a thin hard rubber gasket under the motor...save this. Clean the aluminum housing with brake cleaner and a brush...same for the plunger on the motor...

^^^ Good luck with that. I tried every trick I know to get it to pass AZ emissions without an EGR. Didn't happen...I ended up installing it. In fact, my new FFIM has a provision for the EGR.

Vaseline works well ;)

The EGR VSV will not help in this case. The VSV only functions above ~4000 RPM to shut off the EGR valve...at idle, vac is removed mechanically by throttle plate position in the TB. The VSV does need to be replaced (you don't want the EGR functioning at high RPM). It looks like your EGR...

Thread Closed...there's already a thread on this subject in the stickys under the Build Gallery.

Actually you are interested in flow rate for a given diameter pipe ;) Pipe Pressure Drop/Flow Calculator

^^^ Correct! The TB port is the primary source of vac off boost (where we spend most of the time). It needs to be "T'ed" into hose #4 to provide vac to the catch can.

You should be able to remove the fuel rail with the upper intake manifold attached: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=84 I would get a full set of O-rings for the rail and grommets for the head. It would also be a good time to clean the ISCV and...