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Another thing to look at...is timing set correctly. Improper timing can affect coolant temps a lot like this.

You know Hommer, sometimes "old school" works against you ;) First, we are not talking about race cars. What's done on a race car is not necessarily a good thing for a street car. Second, this "myth" came from years ago when cars used low pressure radiator caps with upright-style...

Another place these crack is inside the "snail" on the wheel side. I've seen a rather long crack from the flange to the metal surrounding the wheel. These are hard to see due to carbon build-up. And, yeah...those wastegate port cracks are really bad. Some of the worst I've seen.

That might work...cut the 90 deg end off the stock upper hose to fit. You might have to do a little grinding on the power steering reservoir mount. And, make sure the sensor wires are tucked out of the way.

Sounds like a Koyo 1JZ radiator...it's going to be a challenge getting that upper hose routed ;)

The block is 1/8" BSPT...it's likely your ProSport is 1/8" NPT. Short answer, you will need an adapter.

Already answered the jiggle valve question in a previous post...slow down your reading and speed up comprehension ;) It also helps prevent a pressure build-up behind the stat when closed (cold)...makes it easier for the stat to open. Check the radiator fill neck and make sure the sealing...

Good for you George...just because you get away with it, makes it ok huh? http://www.fallacyfiles.org/cumhocfa.html The system was not designed for that high a pressure...there are many different places hoses can (and have) failed. Race car? Different story...just because you might want to...

Jiggle valve is labeled in the bottom pic: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=8 Yes...the heater core is inside the car. If people are telling you it's leaking, where is it dripping from...i.e. where does the puddle from under the car? There's...

Yes, you should get a stock cap. ;) Stant makes quality caps as well. One thing I always do is cut the jiggle valve off the thermostat. Provides a small flow at all times and helps keep the system free of air. Hard to say if will help in this situation. Since you UV dyed the coolant...

Yep...I'm thinking it's a thermostat that sticks in a partial open position. The lack of a shroud and a *possible* clogged radiator would make it worse. You do need a shroud. If you replace the thermostat, make sure it's the stock temp for the 2JZ. Toyota TSSC's "look" for a specific...

The stock cap is holds between 10.7 and 14.9 psi...you are not improving anything by using a higher pressure cap. In fact, you risk blowing hoses or worse case, a block freeze plug. I'm not making fun of you, but what you're doing does not make any sense. Are you running a 50/50 mix of...

You would have to remove the EGR fitting from the manifold and snake a wire through to see if it's blocked. I like JJ's wire rope idea...you could pick up a piece of cable (3/8" or 7/16" should work) at the hardware store, fray the end, and have at it with a drill. This is a good read...

Count, read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46793

There's been a couple guys used the Hylomar on a stock composite gasket with success...same for Permatex copper spray and Brake Quiet. I would NOT USE any type of sealer or dressing on a new MHG...they come from the factory with a Viton coating that is plenty good enough for the initial seal...

JJ - I'm still using the air filters that came with the MotorGuard...talk about wound up tight! I've got a few rolls of the Scotts ready to go when these are done ;)

There is no turbocharger pressure sensor or circuit, MAP sensor, wastegate VSV or circuit on a 7M-GTE ;) Code 34 trouble areas: Turbocharger Air Flow meter ECU Intercooler system

I'm with JJ...if the coolant gauge is showing normal with no stat, there is something wrong...it should show lower than normal temps. The radiator is the likely culprit. The boiling could be a result of this too, especially if the coolant mix is close to 100% water (lower boiling point)...

AeroQuip AQP socketless hose: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400274+4294923289+115+304193&autoview=sku You will still need the hose ends and AN-NPT fittings for the cooler. Use -8 size minimum for the lines. Might want to read this too...

The MotorGuard is a completely separate circuit...you could tap off the turbo feed line (or the unused port forward of the oil pressure sensor) and return to the cooler port on the pan. The MotorGuard uses an orifice...only a small amount is passed through the filter, hence the term "bypass...