ROTFLMAO :bigthumb:
That is the funniest, most appropriate thing I've read in a long time JJ!
I really like the rust, the leaves, and how this guy's engine bay looks in general. Very well maintained :rolleyes:
43 psi is high, especially if you're using stock 440 injectors. Drop it to ~30 psi with the vac line attached.
I hope you decked the head AND block for a MHG (50 RA or less for the Titan)...ARP stud torque should be 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube.
COS - You really need to take a valium, or a 7M won't be the only thing that blows a head gasket here ;)
I was going to write a very long winded post on why 75% of what you posted is BS...instead I'm going to post a couple pics out of a 1989 Mk III manual. If the rest of what you say is...
Yes, I've seen those on muscle cars...I have not actually used one though. Essentially, it's two smaller radiators stacked on top of each other...it should be more efficient, but I don't have personal experience. I can't say I've seen a multi-pass radiator on a production car.
Keep in mind...
The term "upright radiator" applies to what was used on cars 30 years ago...in reality, they are all "upright" ;)
The terminology I used is a matter of semantics...by "cross flow" the coolant enters on the upper right and exits on the lower left. Technically, it is a downflow type with...
The diagram does not show the heater control valve...that is what JJ is referring to. It's a fact, it never completely blocks flow through the heater core...and, doesn't close till the climate control is set to the lowest setting (65 deg).
The CPS can fail, but it's not common. The wiring to it gets hard/brittle at the connector, hence the wiggle tip...I would look there 1st and the wiring condition across the top of the motor.
CPS = Crank Position Sensor. I have a question. How can you wiggle the wires to it if you don't know "what and where it is"?
The CPS is behind the power steering reservoir and looks like this:
(wiggle the connector on top and the wires leading to it)
JJ - If I remember correctly, on the coolant filter change last year the filter media looked a lot cleaner.
Why do you think it caught so much debris this year?
Edit: Found the thread ;)
JJ's 2007 Coolant Filter Pics
It's very important you do not set the head on a hard surface while prepping it. The weight of the head on the valves that are extended can bend the stems...even slightly = NOT good. Set the head on a block of foam rubber or a pair of 2x4's along the sides (not touching the combustion...
Be careful about using parts out of an '89...some of the harness connectors (not the ECU) are different. You kinda have to look at an '89 as it "own year".
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