Search results

Since you like to Ninja edit (as you have before in this thread)...I'm going to start quoting you: You also like to pull statements out of what Dr Haas says (as well as others) to fit your paradigm, here's what your referring to in context: A couple key statements on synthetic oil...

Juiced - Skeptical is good...stubborn is not. Your perception is based on what you do...of course you will see the results you want to see unless you pull your motor apart. But your logic is based on "I like clean oil"..."I feel this is best"..."that doesn't make common sense". Hardly...

True...but with a stock thickness MHG, he'll be a heck of a lot closer ;) Quench will be a lot closer to stock too!

Zum - I've got a feeling he doesn't really want to do the math...looking like a "best guess" will do ;) A 2mm MHG will lower compression in addition to the -20cc "unadvertised" dish.

Not that I'm aware of. If the probe's are a 20cc dis, CR will be lower than advertised.

Stock head thickness = 116mm deck to cam cover sealing surface Block height = 198.5mm between main bearing saddle and deck

I edited post #39...look at the 2nd link for a top view of the cam/throttle valve. You should be able to replace this part from the dealer....inspection should tell you if it's the spring, retainer, roller or or cam. Edit: Damn JJ...another book I need to get my hands on ;)

In laymen's terms ;) Line pressure is the "force" that effects shifts, engages the clutch packs, and engages TC lock-up. Inadequate line pressure = soft (or no) shift, slipping clutch packs, and it would not surprise me if the TC did not lock up. This fits what you are experiencing with the...

It's higher math...addition :biglaugh: There's .039" in 1mm Stock HG thickness is 1.37mm compressed Increase MHG thickness by the amount removed from the block and head.

There is one thing you need to know about the ATI dampner...the crank bolt flange needs to be turned down to 1.780" in diameter.

The stock manifold flows plenty well enough for what a CT26 can handle...even a CT26 that's been upgraded. Get a new 3" elbow or a single piece downpipe as suggested.

Rennat - this is not really something you want to "guess" at ;)

It's this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATI%2D918525&N=700+115&autoview=sku Suprarich sells them too...he's a vendor here. Let me think about this for a second...go to the Dealer and pay more for a stock dampner or buy a higher quality ATI...

That's gonna depend on how much material that been removed from the block & head decks. The type piston (compression wise) you are going to use and how much boost you plan on putting through the motor. You have to keep in mind HG thickness affects cylinder quench area in addition to compression.

Why reduce the clamping force all at once? Three passes from 80 to 85 ft/lbs? Bit over kill...I guess you can do that if you want. No point really in making this more painful than it is. ;)

A metal CAT (Exhaust Depot) will flow better, but the metal substrate can be damaged if you go lean. The ceramic substrate CAT is more corrosion resistant. I'm pretty sure the Exhaust Depot CAT is a 2-way (CO + HC), most modern ceramic CATs are 3-way (CO + HC + NOx)...the 7M came with a...

I don't think I said 89 ft/lbs on a re-torque...now 85 ft/lbs does come to mind ;) (if I did it was a typo) Yes, follow the TSRM pattern and use a breaker bar to just crack the nut (1/4 turn or so), then go to 85 ft/lbs. Do them one at a time...i.e. don't crack all then re-torque all.

I also have the one from Exhaust Depot...works as intended ;)

80 ft/lbs using moly (the little packet) as lube.

That's exactly why I'm confused...you have to lift the valve body to disconnect the cable. All these smart people didn't actuate the mechanism to see if it was binding? And, the OP is still confused on what line pressure does? Tell you what Juiced, you have a good handle on rehashing what's...