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What you did to the IC pipe is fine. I would use a straight 30W HD oil vs a non detergent.

Ok...a bit confused as to what exactly the problem is. Are we talking about the remote filter head or the adapter to the block? Besides, why would you switch something that is working?

GC is thicker at ops temp (100 deg C) than most 30W multigrade oils.

It's the igniter that provides the signal...the harness wiring is the same. The GTE has an igniter firing 3 dual coils...the GT has a coil feeding a distributor. If you would take the time to look at the TSRM/EWD, it would become clear. Besides, if the GTE comes from the factory with a...

An 80mm TB is too big for a CT26, but will work. The Q45 is an 80mm (ID) TB, but has it's own wiring issues with the TPS. You need to have an IC and piping matched to the flow of the turbo, bigger IS NOT better. Focus on the entire system, not just one part of it ;)

Didn't look at the TRSM?!?! :3d_frown: In either case (what lagged said too), you will have to pull the head. Maybe next time you won't "wing it". Top pic, looking down on the block deck: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=55

Did you put RTV in the locations on top of the front plate where it mates to the head specified by the TRSM?

Lets think about this for a second...a turbo tach comes from the factory in a turbo car. Care to guess what kind of harness/ECU is in that car? ;)

Well, the smallest restriction is going to be your limiting factor for flow...2 1/2" piping is adequate for most turbos (a CT26 would only need ~2"). In your case, the 2" is the limiting diameter. For a CT26 it will be OK, but anything over 60mm (stock size) for the TB is not going to help...

Are you using 4" IC piping with an IC that has a 4" intlet/outlet? ;) You might want to think about how the turbo's ability to flow through the IC piping is going to affect critical mach as part of the total system....the TB is the last part of that piping. I'll give you a hint...bigger is...

A TB needs to seal...it's definitely a contributor. I've got that TB in the 80mm ID version (Ku-Engineering)...100mm is a bit big ;) It's a nice TB, kinda pricey though...mine is made to use the '89+ TPS (#20050).

That TB is not going to work ;)

LOL...don't do that ;) It's pretty easy to over complicate a problem...do it myself. Just ask my wife :biglaugh:

You size the helicoil to the thread size for the bolt/stud. In this case, stock exhaust studs are M10x1.25.

I used the Right Stuff on my oil pan (no gasket), but that was the only place on the motor. It works well. You can also use it on the differential cover and auto tranny pan.

The CEL doesn't work because of the EFI fuse (as you suspect). I'd check the wiring supplying power to the ECU. Also check the O2 sensor wires.

If there's a gasket available, I use it. You can spray with copper sealer if you want.

Yep...that's what I was thinking. The reason I asked about the oil is gear oils that contain friction modifiers are not good for syncros...RP is one of those oils. Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=614158&postcount=7 It would be hard to say that the previous use...

The wire is a shielded type...it deteriorates over time and the ground becomes a problem. You have to rewire both sensors. You will need to clear the ECU code after you fix it. Shaeff sells a rewire kit for those that are a bit "wiring challenged" ;)

Ummm...no. An extension does not effect the torque reading. Think about Newtonian physics...specifically the part about "equal/opposite" reaction. Read this...start at post #11: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65048&page=2