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Jag - You can look at this 3 ways depending if you're using the stock wiring to power the pump, simple resistor bypass, or using the stock wiring to trigger a relay providing battery power to the pump. 1) Stock wiring to power the pump: Connect +B = Blue wire w/ black stripe to FP (to pump)...

It's the 2 pics next to the bottom that concerns me...does the bearing have grooves in it where the dark lines are? (sure looks like it)

Doesn't take much to bend the valves with that much weight on them!

Ummm...that's not a fuse...it's a harness connector for the O2 sensor (like I said). You can just splice the wires, but that will be permanent....pay attention to join the correct wires, if you start blowing an EFI fuse, you did it wrong. The CPS wires in the pic look cracked...could just be...

It wasn't the 30A relay causing the problem ;) Who wired the switch in to ground FC (green wire in my TEWD)? Yes, it will work. I hope nothing happens...your last move before you go unconscious in an accident better be to turn off the ignition.

Mario - Dump the switch and reconnect the FC wire to the ECU. Re-read the 2nd paragragh I posted above. It will run all the time with the switch...it's dangerous if the car is in an accident. Black w/ red stripe connected to Blue wire w/ black stripe also bypasses the stock starter relay...

Holy crap! So, it was the clearance between the thrust plate and collar :eek: You could order a new collar from Jay Marks...the reference for removal/installation is page EM-85 in the TRSM. The problem I see is the front bearing is scored....EM-84 has the specs on it. You might be able to...

This is what I posted in Mario's fuel pump thread...esentially what you have in diagram #2 above: Something to look at is a Weldon Fuel Pump Controller: http://www.weldonracing.com/product.phtml?p=23 It allows you to do essentially the same thing as the resistor...problem is these are...

Looks like the O2 sensor connector to me ;) It should have nothing to do with the engine not starting...not having it will prevent AFR feedback corrections to the ECU. Your no start problem lies elsewhere. Looking at the wires going to the yellow CPS connector, that's where I would start.

Not completely true...the 12V relay in the back essentially replaces the stock FP relay. Walbro pumps pull a bit more current...the stock wiring (assuming good condition) can handle it, but using 10GA battery power is is much better, especially if you have the battery in the back. Power to the...

Tweak - Just to be sure I understand what you are saying, your advocating disconnecting the FC wire from the ECU and installing a switch to ground? Then the driver manually operates the switch (or leaves it on) to turn the pump on with the ignition on? If this is correct, you realize you're...

Agreed...looks like a minor casting defect. It had nothing to do with your problem...all that channel is there for is to return oil from the cams to the block.

Oops! (hate it when I do that!)

Pete - There's a small block-off plate right below your Canton adapter. If it's not tightened down, it would cause what you describe. It blocks off the main channel from the oil pump leading to the rest of the engine.

On a stock motor, oil pressue is 4.3 psi at idle and 36-71 psi at 3000 RPM. Yours looks pretty normal. ;) But, you're correct...to be sure you need a mechanical gauge hooked up at the sending port.

Sure...right here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 ;)

LOL...now that conjures up a great visual. The Dick Mobile ;)

You're welcome ;)

Hole closest to the edge (left one in original pic) is the feed to the filter.

Alright then...seals should be good. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Who - you're thinking of the belt tensioner, but he's going to have to remove that to get the plate off.