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If you pull that rear timing plate (and you'll have to in order to secure the oil shaft bracket), there's going to be some things to keep in mind. - You'll need RTV to reseal the oil pan - You'll need RTV on the top of the timing plate as shown in the TSRM - You might as well replace the oil...

Wow...you're quick. Re-read above ;)

It's not normal. Either 1) the bolt securing the bracket to the block is loose, 2) the bolt securing the gear to the shaft is loose, or 3) there is excessive play between the thrust collar and #1 bearing (not likely). In the case of the above video, it looks like reason #1. The front timing...

The port that leads to the filter stud is the inlet to the motor...it should be attached to the line coming from the oil filter. The other one (oil pump outlet) feeds the filter. This is true for all block adapters (at least it better be) ;)

There's 3 connectors on the coil pack end from the igniter...there's a specific order. The longest goes to the most distant coil, middle connector to middle coil, etc. It should be very difficult to get this wrong, but you never know around here ;) Do check the igniter wires to each coil...

What I would like to know: - Turbine A/R you have...does the turbo plateau at higher RPM - Start spool to full boost RPM range - Boost psi at start to full boost psi and how fast it tracks RPM - Type exhaust manifold...divided or undivided - Manual or an auto tranny - How it compared to a...

I suggest you check the igniter itself, a good ground for the igniter (the bracket is the ground...not the best), and the wires from the igniter to the coils (correct order too).

I assume you have a stock PCV system in place?

They come in handy on occasion ;) Don't use them very often, but they are priceless to have when you need to wrench in a tight spot!

The problem is the bolts are recessed on the cooler plate...a ratcheting wrench is a good idea, but will not fully seat the bolts. You would need to use this adapter with a low profile metric socket and a ratcheting wrench: Craftsman 3 pc. Socket Cap Set Sears item# 00943303000, Mfr. model...

And uncovering the pick-up tube during lateral G will do it, especially if the oil level is below full on the dipstick ;)

Figgie - what size and where did you mount yours? Setab and Mocal coolers tend to be a bit thick.

Now start acting like it ;) Thread moved.

They are nice cooler...on par with B&M, Setab, and Longs. All are plate type coolers...more efficient than the tube/fin type (like stock) due to increased surface area on the oil plate channels. That's a pretty pricey cooler ;)

It makes it easier to get to the EGR valve, but does nothing for getting access to the cooler.

Wow...only 4 posts to make a simple question clear :3d_frown:

X2 on if it's water...probably nothing to worry about.

Did you check the CPS wires running across the top of the cam back plate? I've seen them get quite brittle and crack due to heat over the years in this area.

Given enough $$$, quality parts, and attention to detail it is attainable. Go cheap and take shortcuts and the result is not so good.

But accurate...and, appropriate ;)